Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille Annick Goutal, edt

1 Dec

Mon Parfum Cheri,par Camille makes my fiance physically ill because he cannot stomach its non-sweet richness. This is only for serious iris lovers. I loved it. I tested the original edt iris-heavy formulation. Many have mentioned that this perfume reminds them of old fashioned glamour. I don’t get that from it at all.

This perfume is so creamy and sour/bitter at the same time it is truly unique. It also contains a large amount of deep dry earthiness, like parched black mud in powdered form combined with candle wax, and dark purple plum skins. The tang of plum balances the fatty orris and the dusty patchouli so expertly, I’m spellbound.

annick-goutal-camille

The acid and alkaline components do not blend here. Instead, they remain separate and juxtaposed in an equilibrium that commands respect. I can’t believe someone actually composed it! It’s an olfactory assemblage. Truly perfume as art. Waxy, bitter, powdery, and addictive.

This is not a welcoming smell. It comes off as something you know you shouldn’t be smelling for your own health/safety, but you succumb to it anyway. Like drugs or fumes or magic. Seriously engaging.

This fragrance is now available in both edt and edp formulas, with the former being more dry/iris-heavy, and the latter focusing more on fruity nuances. The edt leans more masculine, though as a true iris lover, I prefer it.

please do not paint.JPG

by Kilian Bamboo Harmony

22 May

Bamboo Harmony starts off with promising hints of citrus and sweet floral notes, but rapidly becomes an unexceptional (dusty) powdery floral tea-centered fragrance. I much prefer Water Calligraphy to this, though with Water Calligraphy, the emphasis is on sparkling sunny florals instead of tea, bergamot, and green grassy notes.

After the delightful opening, Bamboo Harmony quickly morphs into a powdery floral, and then the tea really comes out full force, but still cloaked in this powdery floral veil with a hint of ambiguous spice.

The white tea has a somewhat nose-tingling bitter element as if it has been a little over-steeped, and then cooled/muted to make iced tea, so that the notes go a little flat on my skin.

In the dry down, there is a powdery musk and the tea continues to permeate with its subtle yet persistent bite. The dry down is actually quite pleasant and ends as green as they come, but I would not choose this before any other more vibrant and simultaneously gentle (harmonious?) tea fragrances.

This reminds me of the perfume which “hangs” around a strange rich lady who is placidly looking at the same painting as you at a museum. You can tell that she is not friendly and she doesn’t notice you at all, even though you are no more than inches away. She is in her own calm, insulated and isolated world.

Like warm ice.

 

Cedre Parfums 06130

22 May

Cedre is a wood and flower ghost fragrance.  It reminds me of a Shirley Jackson novel. It is amazing to me how many forms a Cedre fragrance can have. This one surprised me with its ethereal character.

A very light, pretty, powdery cedar with a faint barbershop quality from the violet. Despite its barbershop leanings, Cedre could be worn with ease by a man or a woman, because it is soft and slightly sweet.

It is very light, and well-blended so that the voilet, musk and cedar all weigh in about equally. Its projection is low and it does not last very long, but it would be appropriate for any occasion as a result. Maybe not for a loud party. Then again, who knows?

Cedre is the whispering voice of a beautiful female ghost who wanders the halls of an old bed & breakfast outside of town. She retreats to the lace of the curtains on the windows, but comes out to breathe her delicate sweet perfume right before you round the corner to discover no one is there.

Dolce & Gabbana D&G Anthology: L’Imperatrice 3

22 May

This fragrance smells like a cross between a Strawberry Kiwi Snapple beverage, and a watermelon Jolly Rancher hard candy. However, it does not possess the kind of sweetness that makes me want to drink it instead of wear it. I also find it to be less cloying than some of the summer Escada scents, so for anyone who enjoys those but feels they are a little “much”, this has a similar tropical fruit candy feel and is a great alternative. It also reminds me of a better executed of the new Ana Sui collection. You know, that one with the peacock cap, etc.

#3 has an ample dose of ozonic “freshness” and though the dry down is less than perfect on my clothes especially with a very slight bitterness, I do find it to be a very uplifting scent overall. It’s like an ideal summery body spray disguised by a classy, heavy glass bottle.

My boyfriend said I smelled great when I doused myself with this, (and you really can, because the longevity is only body spray length, though the sillage is considerable). If you have body spray you already love (I don’t), then this may be a waste of your time. Otherwise, a light, juicy candy scent for smelling shampoo girly-clean. MMMhmm.

Update:
The dry down smells like someone spilled a strawberry kiwi wine cooler all over my clothes. It is not attractive and it lingers for more than a day. I had to return my bottle. This calls to mind the wise words of natural perfumer and founder of Providence Perfume Co., Charna Ethier who strongly believes in building perfumes “from the base, up.”

Without a quality foundation, even light fragrances with alluring top notes can morph into an unsavory synthetic mess.

Sorry, L’Imperatrice 3.  So close, yet so far.

By Kilian Water Calligraphy

14 May

Water Calligraphy is a masterfully blended aquatic floral.

Magnolia and grapefruit pop out right in the opening, giving the composition a glorious sparkling warmth. The cardamom gives it a slightly spicy edge, and the water lily and vetiver give it a lush translucency.
It has a large, rich peachy sillage, good longevity, and the whole thing positively glows, like an expensive married woman on a relaxed afternoon brunch with her grownup daughter. Or maybe it is the expensive grownup daughter who is wearing Water Calligraphy. It is a fragrance they could easily share.

This fragrance is extremely floral and Sunny sweet, so if you shy away from sweet white floral frags, this may not be for you.

The soapy, powdery and aquatic notes really emerge full-force in the dry down, which is admittedly not so exciting as far as dry downs go, but it remains easy to wear, right through to the end.  I see this fragrance as a sparkly fuchsia and tangerine colored aura.  If Pegasuses were real,  luminous trails of Water Calligraphy would probably flow from their butts as they gracefully soared through the clouds.

I tend to dislike aquatic notes in fragrances, but Kilian pulls them off well in this summery feminine composition. I wouldn’t buy it myself but I will probably use my whole sample, which is more that I can say for a lot of perfumes.

pink girls

M. Micallef Royal Vintage

13 May

When testing fragrances with my boyfriend I often refer to them as things that help me contextualize them for both of us, and when I tested M. Micallef’s Royal Vintage, I kept referring to it as, that Aventus one. They are definitely not the same scent, but similar enough that my familiarity with Aventus makes me automatically associate the two fragrances.

For those who are not familiar with either, they are both warm, spicy, woody fragrances rounded out by some acidic fruits with a kind of smoky pineapple quality. However, They are not so similar that one can replace the other, and I feel that each is deserving of individual consideration, even if they are close cousins. To make a designer/female analogy, if that would be helpful to anyone, they are about as similar as Kenzo Amour and Dior Hypnotic Poison are to one another.

If ever leather could be refreshing, this fragrance is a perfect example. Bergamot peel, spicy woodsy notes and smoky sweet fruitiness all revolve around a clean light leather.

This would be a great summer evening vacation scent. It is soothing and romantic, with a very casual facet.

This fragrance is incredibly well rounded and balanced. It smells tropical, masculine, and expensive. Projection and longevity are excellent so apply carefully. It actually has the lasting power of indelible ink, on me it stayed THROUGH a shower, so make sure you’re definitely in the mood to wear it! If you enjoy spicy, warm, complex masculine citrus frags and aren’t adverse to a nicely blended leather, give this one a shot.

If I woke up next to a man who smelled from Royal Vintage, I would be like, “AAAAAA!! WHAT DID YOU DO WITH MY BOYFRIEND!?”
But then I would take a deep breath of his Aventus, er, I mean Royal Vintage, sigh, and think to myself,

“Mhm. Everything’s gonna be alright.”

the fur coat

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto

12 May

Manifesto smells like CGI wood, sweet powder, and tangy dark berries. On the exhale, there is a sweet airy vanilla.

Manifesto is the older, more daring and devilish cousin of Viva la Juicy. It is definitely a contemporary composition. When I first tried it about four months ago, I could not STAND it, but now that I am more familiar with the vast array of generic vanillic offerings that make up this particular fragrance family, I don’t mind it at all. It’s projection and longevity are about average, not unlike Viva la Juicy.

There is a syrupy synthetic DNA code in there that cannot be ignored. However, if you decide to embrace Manifesto for what it is, it can be comforting, reassuring, and ::gulp:: … sexy.

 

All the pics From the Old Computer 3420

Rose Strang

Art and Photography by Rose Strang

[BELLA]VIA

lifestyle,illustrations,travel & beauty

Amy Berkowitz

Copywriter

nstperfume

a blog about perfume

Perfume Shrine

To stop and smell the roses takes a lifetime

Modern Urban Sensory Experiences

To stop and smell the roses takes a lifetime

My Life Among the Lithops (and Other Strange Plants)

To stop and smell the roses takes a lifetime

Perfume Project NW

To stop and smell the roses takes a lifetime

sherapop's salon de parfum

To stop and smell the roses takes a lifetime

TurtleAndRobot.com

Children's Book Reviews

Pour Monsieur

To stop and smell the roses takes a lifetime

From Pyrgos

To stop and smell the roses takes a lifetime

Bigslyfragrance's Blog

Just another WordPress.com weblog

silkroadcollector.me

An International company that offers private antique art sales to clients around the globe.

%d bloggers like this: