Grapefruit Challenge: Three Ways

21 Feb

I compared three grapefruit fragrances today: Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermes, Guerlain’s Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune, and Hesperides by Fresh.

Eau de Pamplemousee Rose is a bright authentic citrus, beginning with fresh sour and sweet juice and the bitterness of the peel, like a halved yellow grapefruit served in a crystal dish. The grapefruit starts off sharp and natural, but is quickly softened with gentle florals in a crystal vase in the background. This is an elegant scent that is so true to a real grapefruit, I almost expected my wrist to be sticky from the juice.

As it wears on, the sharpness of the grapefruit fades but the sweetness remains, and one is left with a Sun warmed citrus-floral, like waiting on a bench in perfect weather while your friend returns from getting some ice cream.

Hesperides smells like a pleasantly scented grapefruit toy for girls. It smells like a grapefruit vitamin C lozenge. It is sweet though not in a cloying or excessively cheap way, but there is no depth whatsoever to this fragrance. It is a matte, pale yellow grapefruit pillow. It would be a nice first perfume for a girl between the ages of 8 and 12.

Guerlain’s Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune smells much less realistic than Eau de Pamplemousee Rose. On my skin, Pamplelune’s grapefruit is layered with a subtle ammonia-like almost urine element, which might be a failed attempt at the bitterness of the grapefruit peel, an (off) green aspect, or some sort of pepper/earth note. It is quite unpleasant, and the ammonia element persists throughout the dry-down.

Eau de Pamplemousee Rose has pretty poor longevity, though this means you can keep applying it throughout the day in order to relive that juicy opening. In my opinion, EDC is the perfect concentration for this fragrance, because true to life citrus is most refreshing when experienced in short bursts.


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