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Hermes Eau D`Orange Verte

21 Feb

This fragrance smells uncannily similar to L’eau de L’Artisan by L’Artisan, only with the addition of orange and lime sour fruit and peel top notes. Under that initial blast of fresh citrus fruits, there is an almost musty, herbal base of something reminiscent of dried, though still very green basil and grass. I happened to have the bottle of L’Artisan close by, and when I applied D’Orange Vert, and allowed the top notes to settle on my skin so that the heart and base began to take on more dimension, I couldn’t help but notice L’Artisan’s green herbal body peering out. I applied it on my other wrist just to be sure and the similarities blew me away.

Personally, I would choose L’Artisan over the Hermes in this instance, because the longevity on D’Orange Verte is very poor, even more so than L’Artisan’s generally short-lasting fragrances. If you are in love with all things sour orange however, D’Orange Verte is certainly that even with the basil lurking in the background.

Hermes Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

21 Feb

On application, this fragrance forms a slightly salty halo of scent around me. In this fragrant haze of raw fruit, I can conjure an image of dried dates, and fibrous fruit pits, with an almost undetectable breeze.

As the scent develops, the breeze flips over the leaves so their undersides are exposed, revealing paler shades of green, as well as mangoes in various stages of ripening. My feet are planted in dusty earth, and the spell of the Sun is overwhelming. The earth and the Sun are both golden and this slight breeze causes the mango trees to emanate a glorious mellow aroma.


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Over time, the wisps of hair in front of my eyes go unmoved, and everything seems to slow down as I stare unblinking out onto a surreal landscape.
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This is the scent of actively trying to preserve a sublime memory. It’s a mantra.

It’s the sensation of not being responsible for anything except appreciating the present moment. When it settles down into a skin scent, I smell gently ripened as if I have been out in the Sun all day.


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Un Jardin Sur Le Nil is a portable, authentically personal space. And when I mean space, I mean A LOT of space. Ideal for transcending the mental confines of New York.

Hermes Eau de Gentiane Blanche

21 Feb

This fragrance is a downpour. This heavy rain pummels the cold rocks earth, and grass, and other plants on the side of a mountain during a cool night. It’s the kind of rain you surrender to, allowing yourself to get soaked to the skin. When I first smell it I can hear the swelling noise of the rainfall begin.

I am extremely cautious when observing scents that contain elements of the fragrance of rain, but I put my trust in this one, and use it only once in a while, because it has that much integrity and power.

Grapefruit Challenge: Three Ways

21 Feb

I compared three grapefruit fragrances today: Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermes, Guerlain’s Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune, and Hesperides by Fresh.


Eau de Pamplemousee Rose is a bright authentic citrus, beginning with fresh sour and sweet juice and the bitterness of the peel, like a halved yellow grapefruit served in a crystal dish. The grapefruit starts off sharp and natural, but is quickly softened with gentle florals in a crystal vase in the background. This is an elegant scent that is so true to a real grapefruit, I almost expected my wrist to be sticky from the juice.

As it wears on, the sharpness of the grapefruit fades but the sweetness remains, and one is left with a Sun warmed citrus-floral, like waiting on a bench in perfect weather while your friend returns from getting some ice cream.

Hesperides smells like a pleasantly scented grapefruit toy for girls. It smells like a grapefruit vitamin C lozenge. It is sweet though not in a cloying or excessively cheap way, but there is no depth whatsoever to this fragrance. It is a matte, pale yellow grapefruit pillow. It would be a nice first perfume for a girl between the ages of 8 and 12.

Guerlain’s Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune smells much less realistic than Eau de Pamplemousee Rose. On my skin, Pamplelune’s grapefruit is layered with a subtle ammonia-like almost urine element, which might be a failed attempt at the bitterness of the grapefruit peel, an (off) green aspect, or some sort of pepper/earth note. It is quite unpleasant, and the ammonia element persists throughout the dry-down.

Eau de Pamplemousee Rose has pretty poor longevity, though this means you can keep applying it throughout the day in order to relive that juicy opening. In my opinion, EDC is the perfect concentration for this fragrance, because true to life citrus is most refreshing when experienced in short bursts.

Hermes Un Jardin en Mediterranee

21 Feb

The best fig so far. I tested Un Jardin en Mediterranee for two years before pulling the trigger on a FB, so I could take the time to really see what was happening within this fragrance. In that time I also sampled: JM’s Wild Fig and Cassis, L’Artisan’s Premier Figuier, Philosykos by Diptyque, and Fico Di Amalfi by Acqua Di Parma. This one trumps the rest in my opinion, because it is less of a fragrance than a mood. It is beautifully melancholy. It’s resting on a bench in early Spring when it’s just warm enough to relax outside so long as you stay in the Sun. Longevity is quite good as is its projection. It won’t stink out your entire office, but it creates a nice aura around the wearer, and lasts all day and into the evening (into the next day on clothing).

The fig, and the garden are present, but they aren’t in your face, they aren’t too green, too milky sweet, or too pungent. They are just being, and you’re invited to “just be ” along with them. The vibration of this fragrance is not excessively bright or active. It is sublimely restful, almost to the point of something like sadness, but not exactly. It is more like a base line for being. Sun and shadows and tomatos. (and figs).

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