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by Kilian Bamboo Harmony

22 May

Bamboo Harmony starts off with promising hints of citrus and sweet floral notes, but rapidly becomes an unexceptional (dusty) powdery floral tea-centered fragrance. I much prefer Water Calligraphy to this, though with Water Calligraphy, the emphasis is on sparkling sunny florals instead of tea, bergamot, and green grassy notes.

After the delightful opening, Bamboo Harmony quickly morphs into a powdery floral, and then the tea really comes out full force, but still cloaked in this powdery floral veil with a hint of ambiguous spice.

The white tea has a somewhat nose-tingling bitter element as if it has been a little over-steeped, and then cooled/muted to make iced tea, so that the notes go a little flat on my skin.

In the dry down, there is a powdery musk and the tea continues to permeate with its subtle yet persistent bite. The dry down is actually quite pleasant and ends as green as they come, but I would not choose this before any other more vibrant and simultaneously gentle (harmonious?) tea fragrances.

This reminds me of the perfume which “hangs” around a strange rich lady who is placidly looking at the same painting as you at a museum. You can tell that she is not friendly and she doesn’t notice you at all, even though you are no more than inches away. She is in her own calm, insulated and isolated world.

Like warm ice.

 

By Kilian Water Calligraphy

14 May

Water Calligraphy is a masterfully blended aquatic floral.

Magnolia and grapefruit pop out right in the opening, giving the composition a glorious sparkling warmth. The cardamom gives it a slightly spicy edge, and the water lily and vetiver give it a lush translucency.
It has a large, rich peachy sillage, good longevity, and the whole thing positively glows, like an expensive married woman on a relaxed afternoon brunch with her grownup daughter. Or maybe it is the expensive grownup daughter who is wearing Water Calligraphy. It is a fragrance they could easily share.

This fragrance is extremely floral and Sunny sweet, so if you shy away from sweet white floral frags, this may not be for you.

The soapy, powdery and aquatic notes really emerge full-force in the dry down, which is admittedly not so exciting as far as dry downs go, but it remains easy to wear, right through to the end.  I see this fragrance as a sparkly fuchsia and tangerine colored aura.  If Pegasuses were real,  luminous trails of Water Calligraphy would probably flow from their butts as they gracefully soared through the clouds.

I tend to dislike aquatic notes in fragrances, but Kilian pulls them off well in this summery feminine composition. I wouldn’t buy it myself but I will probably use my whole sample, which is more that I can say for a lot of perfumes.

pink girls

Kilian In the Garden of Good and Evil collection: In The City of Sin

2 Apr

In The City of Sin has a dry spicy opening. Pepper, cardamom, and incense float over resinous woods and warm muted fruit. The fruits are pushed down and restrained by the dry spices and dark woods. It is essentially, fruit in a cage. Thank you to the lovely Kilian reps at Saks, Kim and Will. They were wonderful to give me a sample of this.


In the City of Sin is the experience of visiting something strange, dark, and complex in order to discover sweetness buried beneath. The dry mix of spices and dark woods are an excellent compliment to the Summer fruits. In the City of Sin does not project too much, but once it dries down and its cage of spices and wood evaporates, it releases its soft sweet powdery fruits and lasts for hours close to the skin.

In the City of Sin is masculine and feminine. It is a little like some sort of spicy marinade at first, but give it a chance, and it undergoes a pleasant and unexpected transition or two, eventually drying down to a signature Kilian ambiguously fruity skin scent.

This fragrance’s lack of projection makes it appropriate for a wide range of situations, but it is certainly the most unusual composition of the three offerings from the In The Garden Of Good And Evil collection, so give it some time to develop before forming an opinion. Though I am not presently moved to purchase a FB of this, I also wouldn’t write it off. I think it’s about as noteworthy as Good Girl Gone Bad, though they smell nothing alike.

I recommend this especially for those who want to have the fruit elements of their fragrances perceptible, but restrained.

Kilian In the Garden of Good and Evil: Forbidden Games

25 Mar

Forbidden Games smells like freshly sliced fuji apples drizzled with honey along with a tiny lil’ puff of peach baby powder with a hint of canned cranberry sauce. Not homemade cranberry sauce…CANNED.

I was feeling down the other night so I took the wonderful sample of Forbidden Games given to me by the lovely and generous Kilian reps at Saks, and emptied half of it running around my bedroom spritzing FG in all directions.

After returning to my bed, I thought, “Ahh… I have discovered the best use for Forbidden Games: Room Spray.” Of course I don’t have the money to use anything remotely expensive as room spray, but in a vacuum, Forbidden Games would be my go-to in order to lift my spirits.

On the subject of “spirits”, wearing FG on my body is an entirely different story. I want this amazingly awesome room spray of a fragrance to lift me up and comfort me at the same time, but instead it falls flat. It does that sharp, “static shock up-your-nose” thing that some peachy fruity frags do, and I couldn’t detect any complexity. as I said before: Flat.

Similarly to how Flower of Immortality is a kind of super soft, fleeting and elusive “fragrance spirit”, Forbidden Games also escapes me with it’s nothing projection and disappointing longevity.

I want the lady from the movie Poltergeist or perhaps the priest from The Exorcist to come and do a reading of me, to see if there has been any PERFUME ACTIVITY GOING ON UP IN HERE. They are professional (well, actors…), but in-character, they alone would be able to detect Forbidden Games on my skin after two hours, or hanging in the air in my bedroom…
the morning after.

Kilian Flower of Immortality

23 Mar

Flower of Immortality opens with sugar-covered yellow & pink Haribo peach gummy candies in a cut crystal dish with zingy black currants and a powdery floral note. Mmhm… not bad at all. Thanks to the awesome Kilian reps at Saks for my sample.

As it develops on my skin, I can now see how it conveys that particularly mild sweet aroma characteristic of white peaches, in contrast to the potently flavorful scent of yellow peaches. The currant and powder go really well with the white peach, but before I know it, Flower of Immortality has reduced to a whisper on my skin.

It’s like the spirit of nectar has in passing, glanced at the top of my hand. Only 15 minutes after application, I am holding my nose to my skin in disbelief. Did I spray perfume here once? I swear it smells like peaches, but it must be my imagination. Or maybe… It was a ghost!!!


Perhaps there is an intentional inverse relationship between the Immortal in the name, and the life-span of this scent? 20 minutes in, I’m smelling basenotes as if the perfume had been applied three days ago and this is all that remains.

I want to put the paddles on this fragrance and shock it back to life. Alas, before I can reach for my cell phone charger, my flame thrower, or my sample vial for a refresher, ANYTHING that might in some way help… Flower of Immortality is already going… going…

gone.

Kilian In the Garden of Good and Evil: Good Girl Gone Bad

22 Mar

Good Girl Gone Bad is like a slightly sweet, clean, opalescent powder.

The wonderful Kilian reps at Saks were so generous to give me some samples, one of which was Good Girl Gone Bad.

It is soft and gentle, but as the light hits it and it warms up, different subtle colors can be detected: pinks, greens, yellows, and blues, all pastel in nature like a real white opal. It projects about as much as an opal colored powder would, so it’s pretty much a skin scent for the duration of its moderate lifespan.

There is a vaguely fruity element to these ambiguous florals, which start off rose, and then transform into “floral blend”. Also, right from the opening are gentle woody and warm amber elements. The powdery soft peachiness of this fragrance makes me immediately think “Kilian”, though this is not my favorite from In The Garden Of Good And Evil collection, nor from his other recent offerings in the fruity floral genre.

As it dries down, the powdery soapy aspect increases until it literally feels like I have baby powder in my nose when I hold it up to my skin and breathe. The final notes contain tiny gold flecks of amber against a very faint blue glimmer of aquatic musk.

Good Girl Gone Bad is very well blended and the composition is good, but it is not memorable. It’s like a very beautiful and expensive opal ring that you go to visit at the store with the intent to buy each time, then talk yourself out of it, so that EVERY TIME you leave the store empty-handed.

You want the ring, because it’s just so pretty, and it fits you, and if you had all the money in the world, you wouldn’t give buying it a second thought.

But all things considered, it’s inexplicably just. not. good. enough. C’mon..you know it.

Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses

19 Mar

Liaisons Dangereuses is like jumping up and down on the king-sized bed when you’re not supposed to.

It would be perfect for the girl who has everything, because it smells like a symbolic summation of everything she has.

It’s the irresistible beauty of youth, the freedom of wealth, and the gift of originality. The lovely and knowledgeable Kilian reps at Saks were so wonderful to let me try a sample. Thank you so much Kim and Will!

Liaisons Dangereuses opens with freshly sliced peaches, followed by delicate baby powder surrounding the crisp green leaves of one of the most gorgeous roses I have ever smelled in a fragrance! It literally made me see fireworks in my head.

As it warms up on my skin, all of the notes fuse into an intoxicating translucent Summer hue, with the black currants really coming into focus in the dry down.

It smells like the appearance of golden orange orchid petals, or the scented powder my mom gave me before I had ever worn a perfume, making me feel indescribably pretty and sophisticated.

It’s like a young girl proudly tromping and wobbling through the house wearing her older sister’s high heels.

I don’t care what the name is, or how much it costs.. I even forgot what I was supposed to be doing today.

Liaisons Dangereuses takes you firmly yet softly and wipes your slate clean. Just like that.

It doesn’t last very long, but nothing of this caliber ever seems to. Would you even want it to? How would anything ever get done? All I’m really saying is,

WOOOOO!…that’s good stuff.

Tasha Pilot-Slow

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