Tag Archives: Amber

Cedre Parfums 06130

22 May

Cedre is a wood and flower ghost fragrance.  It reminds me of a Shirley Jackson novel. It is amazing to me how many forms a Cedre fragrance can have. This one surprised me with its ethereal character.

A very light, pretty, powdery cedar with a faint barbershop quality from the violet. Despite its barbershop leanings, Cedre could be worn with ease by a man or a woman, because it is soft and slightly sweet.

It is very light, and well-blended so that the voilet, musk and cedar all weigh in about equally. Its projection is low and it does not last very long, but it would be appropriate for any occasion as a result. Maybe not for a loud party. Then again, who knows?

Cedre is the whispering voice of a beautiful female ghost who wanders the halls of an old bed & breakfast outside of town. She retreats to the lace of the curtains on the windows, but comes out to breathe her delicate sweet perfume right before you round the corner to discover no one is there.

Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy

12 Apr

Have you every seen someone on the street who looked nothing like you and found yourself facing the overwhelming desire to follow them home to see what their bedroom looked like? Okay, perhaps that comes off as a little voyeuristic or perverse, but it’s nothing more than human curiosity! This is the sensation delivered by Viva la Juicy.

 

The first time I encountered Viva la Juicy, I did not actually get to smell it. It was in fact, on the bedroom dresser of a complete stranger.

NO, I did not follow a stranger home and then sneak into her bedroom. My boyfriend and I were visiting his sister, and she let us stay in her roommate’s bedroom while she was away. I had never met the girl before, but I was taken aback by the unabashedly normal-girly character of my surroundings as I tried my best to “make myself at home.”

There were Hello Kitty decals all over her walls, pink curtains, pink cheetah print bedspread, an enormous fluffy white elongated teddy bear in place of a pillow, and on the dresser in front of the mirror, was Viva la Juicy. For some reason, I could not muster up the courage to ask my boyfriend’s sister if I could sample her roommate’s perfume. Every time I tried to ask, my tongue was tied. It was like being in a museum display dedicated to the contemporary, all-American twenty-something. It was right in front of me and yet I couldn’t interact with it.

When I returned home and bought a mini of Viva la Juicy at the pharmacy, I tried it out and it totally met my expectations. It was just like being back in our host’s roommate’s bedroom. Sweet, fruity in a pineapple body mist kind of way, thoroughly synthetic, generic, vanillic, CGI florals throughout, and in it’s own way, pure.

Viva la Juicy is the smell of the idea of present day America. It’s like an olfatory “melting pot”. Sure, everyone’s idea of America is different, but there is something so profoundly vacuous and romantically generic about Viva la Juicy, I have to admit it’s extremely compelling. It doesn’t smell specifically like caramel or fruit or flowers. It smells like a young girl with blonde highlights and Ugg boots over light grey leggings, who is concerned with the present, the evening to follow, her birthday, and not much else.

meimei painting

It’s like the adolescence… hell, like the LIFE I could never have (and don’t actually want to have) in my country. I refer to it as “The Jesus Camp Fragrance” when talking about it with my boyfriend. I call it that because it is an intense youthful expression of an ideal that I could never come within miles of attaining. It’s a lobotomy in a bottle. Who doesn’t occasionally wish for the relief of a temporary zombification? Is that not the present-day American way? I can dig it (if only in the form of a fragrance).

Like America itself, Viva la Juicy knows no season, nor occasion. It’s suitable to wear while doing anything your heart desires. I’m just happy that at last I finally get to follow the stranger..
home.

Tuberose Challenge: Bond No 9’s I Love New York Earth Day vs. Frederic Malle’s Carnal Flower

11 Apr

I did a side by side comparison of I Love New York Earth Day and Carnal Flower, since both are powerful green tuberose fragrances. I Love New York Earth Day is more homogeneous, exceedingly smooth, and the green aspect here is sweeter and translucent, though the fragrance overall is declarative and a great projector.

Pronounced as it is, Earth day has zero sharp edges and rough spots. It’s not even grounded next to Carnal Flower. It’s more like a luminous tuberose liquid, or something that hovers in the air.I find it to be an extremely wearable floral with great longevity, but after a time, something subtly generic/synthetic-smelling emerges in the base, which makes me lean in favor of Carnal Flower’s superior ingredients and crisp, articulated profile. Synthetic hues have no place in this particular green soliflore. Over time, the smooth elixir quality of Earth Day continues to sublimate into an ephemeral and relatively unremarkable state, while Carnal Flower retains its dimension and unwavering decisiveness.

Carnal flower is standing firmly planted on the ground: High heels, ballgown, and hand held way out in front of her to “yield”. Carnal Flower is majestic as #&%@! She’s compositionally layered and dynamic, multi-faceted, sweet, green, vibrant, sparkling, rich, and you can not sneak past her. She’s right in the middle of the cross-walk, with textural green elements containing an almost mentholated tinge. She warns you that you better wear her before she wears you; a challenge you gladly accept. She is daring you to dodge her, to get around her, but you know you’ll never succeed. Better just to surrender. Alright, Carnal Flower. Game over.. you win.

 

Tauer Perfumes Pentachord: Auburn

4 Apr

If this fragrance had only been named, Fruit-Scented Erasers, Christopher Brosius would have nothing on Andy Tauer.

When I was a kid, I had a collection of erasers that were colored and shaped like little fruits, and were supposed to smell like fruit, but they just smelled artificially sweet, and mildly bitter in an off sort of way, and still very much like normal erasers. This is the essence of Pentachord: Auburn.

Pentachord Auburn is cinnamon/tobacco/plastic chewing gum. It smells like the glow of a back-lit, matte-orange hue. It’s like being inside of the orange tunnel on the playground, re-appropriated from raw manufacturing materials, or climbing the wrong direction up the spiraling orange plastic slide at the end of the monkey bars.

It’s a combination of notes from childhood, combined to smell like something very grown up, if not altogether industrial. Cinnamon (sweeter than spicy),  loud synthetic-smelling amber, and very sweet tobacco with orange flower water and rubber. It projects moderately and has fantastic longevity, remaining pretty linear after the opening calms down.

There is nothing “natural” smelling about Auburn, though I don’t dislike this about it. I feel quite comfortable breathing it into my lungs, but only because it is being presented to me as a fragrance. If I were to encounter this scent in an industrial setting or permeating the air in a warehouse or storage facility, I’m pretty sure I’d be terrified.

I first tested this while exploring a glass blowing facility, and am basing this review on my second wearing, not that first one. However, the smokiness in the air of the glass studio combined amazingly with Auburn, making me think it might layer beautifully with a dry, smoky wood-centered fragrance.

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella: Melograno

28 Mar

I have been wearing Melograno for years but never attempted to describe it. It was gifted to me by a close friend and was one of the first fragrances I ever owned, so I was wearing it well before I understood doodly squat about thinking of fragrance in terms of classifications like chypres, note pyramids, and the idea of notes in the first place.

Instead I thought of all fragrances in terms of the colors they evoked in my head. Since then, I have learned a little more, so I’ll give it a shot. Melograno is no longer just the powdery opalescent white layered over burgundy fragrance it once appeared to be. Now when I smell it, I see rainbows. That may sound sentimental, but I really do.

Melograno opens with a sharp, spicy-green, soapy powder with a sweetish/bitter tinge. There is no “true to life” anything in Melograno. It doesn’t even smell like true to life baby powder, though the powder aspect is very prominent. The green is a dry, spicy green, not a lush verdant one; it’s very classic-smelling. The citrus is barely there in the top notes if at all. The rose/orris root is cool and soapy. The patchouli and vetiver are earthy and sweet, but run no risk of obscuring the other elements.

A trace of warmth comes through from the amber, ylang and tobacco, but this fragrance is so well blended and has so much dynamism that it really just IS. Though its notes are not so easy to separate, and are not “true to life”, they aren’t trying to be. Melograno smells like itself, and nothing else. It smells calm, wise and stern.

There is an entire world living inside Melograno, and in that respect I think it actually is very much like a pomegranate, though I am generally not too concerned with names and their accuracy. It fuses seamlessly with my own skin’s scent, but there is also so much complexity that I feel like I can peer into it and never get bored.

Melograno is like a woman who has seen it all. I could sit around admiring her all day.

All the pics From the Old Computer 1332

Kilian In the Garden of Good and Evil: Good Girl Gone Bad

22 Mar

Good Girl Gone Bad is like a slightly sweet, clean, opalescent powder.

The wonderful Kilian reps at Saks were so generous to give me some samples, one of which was Good Girl Gone Bad.

It is soft and gentle, but as the light hits it and it warms up, different subtle colors can be detected: pinks, greens, yellows, and blues, all pastel in nature like a real white opal. It projects about as much as an opal colored powder would, so it’s pretty much a skin scent for the duration of its moderate lifespan.

There is a vaguely fruity element to these ambiguous florals, which start off rose, and then transform into “floral blend”. Also, right from the opening are gentle woody and warm amber elements. The powdery soft peachiness of this fragrance makes me immediately think “Kilian”, though this is not my favorite from In The Garden Of Good And Evil collection, nor from his other recent offerings in the fruity floral genre.

As it dries down, the powdery soapy aspect increases until it literally feels like I have baby powder in my nose when I hold it up to my skin and breathe. The final notes contain tiny gold flecks of amber against a very faint blue glimmer of aquatic musk.

Good Girl Gone Bad is very well blended and the composition is good, but it is not memorable. It’s like a very beautiful and expensive opal ring that you go to visit at the store with the intent to buy each time, then talk yourself out of it, so that EVERY TIME you leave the store empty-handed.

You want the ring, because it’s just so pretty, and it fits you, and if you had all the money in the world, you wouldn’t give buying it a second thought.

But all things considered, it’s inexplicably just. not. good. enough. C’mon..you know it.

Chanel Egoiste Platinum

2 Mar

Egoiste Platinum smells like the Platonic form of “Brand New.”A new pair of kicks, a new car, a new phone, boxer briefs, a yacht, it doesn’t really matter what the thing is,(maybe not a new human… this smells nothing like a baby, thank God) but in a commercial sense, Egoiste Platinum is the ultimate essence of NEW.

This is not to say that it smells like something never invented before. I mean new in the sense of unused. It’s more like what would happen if a master perfumer were given a description of a basic, modern, non-citrus, aromatic men’s fragrance, and was then told to make that scent into a work of art.

Egoiste Platinum is an iconic rendition of itself. It is larger than life, and its composition fuses with the wearer’s chemistry, instead of clashing, or sitting idly on top of it until it wears away. Sillage and longevity are both decent.

Egoiste Platinum is the perfect example of what my sister and I half-jokingly refer to as “Hot Guy Smell.” There’s a store that sells razors and massage chairs (I think?…never really looked around) at the shopping center at Columbus Circle in New York City. This store constantly pumps “hot guy smell” into the air, and whenever we pass it, we have to enter to take a couple deep breaths, before turning right around again and leaving without buying crap. I mean, who really cares!… Stepping in for a few whiffs of Hot Guy never hurt anyone.

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