Tag Archives: aquatic musk

Jo Malone Osmanthus Blossom

4 May

Osmanthus Blossom is a boldly green citrus with water/flower notes. I would rename it Petitgrain Blossom. The reps at my Jo Malone boutique were very generous to give me a big fat sample when I stopped in to say hello.

Osmanthus Blossom opens with sweet and tart, crisp juicy lychee-ish, fruity “water” notes, accompanied by bright, ambiguously green citrus medley (petitgrain with sugar-dipped lime wedges and bergamot oil…maybe even a tea note?)..

The dry down loses some of the sparkle and tang of the opening and contains mostly mild, sunny-sweet powder and green notes which again lean more toward the lotus, petitgrain-citrus direction, than any other. There is also a hint of light, ambiguous woods with the water and powder (a high-quality aquatic musk) toward the very end.

I feel that this is an easy composition, green, sweet, springy, and not representative of anything realistic.

It is an impressionistic fragrance, but my impression of the actual osmanthus bush/tree (one of my all time favorites) is not similar to this fragrance. I don’t usually get hung up on names and review for what I smell, not for what I hope, but I couldn’t help but want a true osmanthus scent from JM, since her Red Roses and Orange Blossom hit the nail on the head with such precision.

I think OB is about as compelling as the new Jasmin & Bergamote by L’Occitane. Longevity and projection are average. I won’t be owning this, but I’m not in the market for a green citrus floral.

OB is a safe bet for someone who wants to smell fresh, feminine, and ready for spring with open arms, but isn’t really sure what she wants in a fragrance, and abhors the idea of offending anyone around her. Ain’t nothin’ wrong with that.

Personally, I would be eager to see Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume Co. attempt an osmanthus soliflore in the same vein as her Hindu Honeysuckle (also a petitgrain-rich composition). I feel that the osmanthus blossom must be nearly impossible to replicate, and if anything can approximate it, the palette of natural perfumery may have the upper hand.

All the pics From the Old Computer 1329

Kilian In the Garden of Good and Evil: Good Girl Gone Bad

22 Mar

Good Girl Gone Bad is like a slightly sweet, clean, opalescent powder.

The wonderful Kilian reps at Saks were so generous to give me some samples, one of which was Good Girl Gone Bad.

It is soft and gentle, but as the light hits it and it warms up, different subtle colors can be detected: pinks, greens, yellows, and blues, all pastel in nature like a real white opal. It projects about as much as an opal colored powder would, so it’s pretty much a skin scent for the duration of its moderate lifespan.

There is a vaguely fruity element to these ambiguous florals, which start off rose, and then transform into “floral blend”. Also, right from the opening are gentle woody and warm amber elements. The powdery soft peachiness of this fragrance makes me immediately think “Kilian”, though this is not my favorite from In The Garden Of Good And Evil collection, nor from his other recent offerings in the fruity floral genre.

As it dries down, the powdery soapy aspect increases until it literally feels like I have baby powder in my nose when I hold it up to my skin and breathe. The final notes contain tiny gold flecks of amber against a very faint blue glimmer of aquatic musk.

Good Girl Gone Bad is very well blended and the composition is good, but it is not memorable. It’s like a very beautiful and expensive opal ring that you go to visit at the store with the intent to buy each time, then talk yourself out of it, so that EVERY TIME you leave the store empty-handed.

You want the ring, because it’s just so pretty, and it fits you, and if you had all the money in the world, you wouldn’t give buying it a second thought.

But all things considered, it’s inexplicably just. not. good. enough. C’mon..you know it.

Bvlgari Omnia Crystalline

15 Mar

Omnia Crystalline smells like an anime princess.

She has soft green eyes containing a sense of tranquility, and translucent sparkly hair which flows down to her knees. Her dress matches her eyes and hair. she has a crystal in the center of her forehead for some reason, as does her horse,(her best friend and confidant).

She is delicate and ethereal. Her proportions are impossible, and she shimmers like an optical illusion; she’s definitely not of this world.

Omnia Crystalline smells like sweet synthetic pear with a very light fruity musk, some powdery notes, and translucent CGI florals. There is a discernable aquatic note as it develops on my skin, which compliments the sweetness of the pear.

Crystalline wears close to the skin, and lasts all day, however daintily. Great for casual wear, and also special moments like mother-daughter bonding, mental health days off from work, etc.

There isn’t much going on here, but for that reason, this fragrance is almost impossible to have strong negative feelings about, since it’s only an anime princess.

How could anyone hate an anime princess?

Nomaterra Washington D.C.

14 Mar

The trees are bare in early Spring, except for the tiniest of buds on the branches, but there is occasionally a hint of something aromatic and earthy floating from the direction of the park.

Washington D.C. is briskly walking to lunch at a bustling urban roundabout, right at the base of a large park in the city center. It is watching the horses and carriages with their owners, who in turn watch the tourists in hopes of selling a ride. It is cold outside and there is commotion everywhere, but the horses are motionless, only occasionally rippling an isolated group of muscles, or shaking their heads from side to side.

Weaving in and out of the crowd of professionally dressed people who are also trying to get to lunch, you pick up random hints of their perfumes and colognes: This one is a little flowery, that one is a serious aquatic (and very close!), while another is SPICY, …leathery, and so on…

It is a unique olfactory trip, weaving through the crowd in the bright grey light of early afternoon in Spring. It’s an oddly juxtaposed noisy scene, and the snippets of things you find yourself staring at take you by surprise.
I was fortunate to receive a sample of Washington D.C. from Nomaterra, because it is not quite like anything I have experienced before.

Washington D.C. opens with a fragrant, almost flowery cherry note which is half way between a realistic dark red cherry, and a chewy candied maraschino cherry. Then, almost immediately, something very strange happens.

There is a strong aromatic earthiness to the opening of Washington D.C… It smells a little like fresh horse sh*t, but less sweet. Maybe it’s the combination of bay leaf and black pepper? There is something heavy and humid and dank in this fragrance. The sweetness of the cherry opening is still hanging around in the background, though it is more faint as it develops on my skin.

As it warms up, the nutmeg really starts to HOLLER at me, along with a suddenly potent and cheap-smelling aquatic musk that grows and grows in force until it is practically eye-watering.

The dry down continues with the familiar “freshness” (not really so fresh) of aquatic musk. The nutmeg lingers faintly in the background along with the black pepper, and the cherries and flowers have long since disappeared.

Washington D.C. projects considerably, especially the black pepper and aquatic musk, which from a distance reminds me of petroleum jelly. The dry down comes quickly, though the longevity of this aquatic musk stage is insane. At the very end of its life, I can detect the faintest trace of a sweet artificial vanilla.

There is something disconcertingly 2-D about Washington D.C. It has the compositional flatness of a cheap designer fragrance, but the odd note variety and development, of something more experimental in nature, something that leaves me struggling to get through it.

The composition is haphazard and unbalanced to my nose, but gets points for originality.

Sarah Horowitz Parfums What Comes From Within: Peace

12 Mar

What comes from Within: Peace is a personal pool party in a bottle. Thank you for the lovely sample, SHP.

WCFWP starts off with soft fruit sherbet creaminess and pool-side aquatics, as well as Sunlight beating down on the cement around the pool. There is an uplifting, citrusy-brightness that lingers in the afternoon air.

My friend in high school had pool parties every Summer, and this sweet fruit with musk and citrus + aquatic notes captures those eternally happy days. Projection is good but not outrageous, as is longevity. It lasts all day and into the evening, drying down to a skin scent for the last two thirds of its life. I agree other reviewers that the aquatic musk can become a little much after you’ve been smelling it for hours on end, such that I am a little eager for it to disappear already towards the end of its extremely long life. This, however, is the fragrance’s only downside.

As it develops on my skin, I suddenly see a tremendous tray overflowing with bright watermelon wedges. On the wooden patio table surrounding the tray, are Ring Pop Candies in bright wrappers boasting two tropical flavors swirled together.

Relaxation. Peace is less a remote, tropical destination, than it is someone’s decked out backyard, where you are always welcome to sit around listening to top 40 radio with tropical Popsicle in hand.

There is an over-sized plush towel with your name on it if your lips start to turn blue, and you can even spend the night if you want to swim more the next day.

What Comes From Within: Peace is the scent of simple consolation in a world full of intense change. It’s an invitation to put everything else aside. To kick your feet up and relax in the bright, warm, afternoon light.

Sarah Horowitz Parfums What Comes From Within: Light

28 Feb

MMM… Salty, oceanic, white flower bouquet in a hand-thrown ceramic vase! This would be the fragrance on the enclosed porch of a beach house on Cape Cod… or at least a perfect scented candle fragrance for one. …

What Comes from Within: Light is largely a freesia lilac fragrance. At the top there is honeysuckle which initially lured me in, since I am still on a mission to find true to life, unadulterated honeysuckle. WCFWL quickly becomes a bunch of fresh florals and aquatic musk. The jasmine is not true to life for me, and though it is present, it is shoved aside by the freesia.

WCFWL remains a linear bouquet with some beachy salty breeze and green/aquatic elements throughout its life, settling eventually into an aquatic musk in the dry down which occurs in about an hour.

I find this fragrance extremely nice, fresh, and un-threatening. Sillage is average but once the florals disappear in the dry down, that aquatic musk clings to my skin for hours. WCFWL doesn’t seem to give me allergies like many freesia fragrances do. Thank you SHP, for the lovely sample.

I could see this one being a go-to fragrance for some when they can’t decide on a SOTD, and a signature for others due to its freshness and wearability. I am not personally moved to own a FB, but my boyfriend loves it on me, so there you go.

Tasha Pilot-Slow

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