Tag Archives: bitter orange

by Kilian Bamboo Harmony

22 May

Bamboo Harmony starts off with promising hints of citrus and sweet floral notes, but rapidly becomes an unexceptional (dusty) powdery floral tea-centered fragrance. I much prefer Water Calligraphy to this, though with Water Calligraphy, the emphasis is on sparkling sunny florals instead of tea, bergamot, and green grassy notes.

After the delightful opening, Bamboo Harmony quickly morphs into a powdery floral, and then the tea really comes out full force, but still cloaked in this powdery floral veil with a hint of ambiguous spice.

The white tea has a somewhat nose-tingling bitter element as if it has been a little over-steeped, and then cooled/muted to make iced tea, so that the notes go a little flat on my skin.

In the dry down, there is a powdery musk and the tea continues to permeate with its subtle yet persistent bite. The dry down is actually quite pleasant and ends as green as they come, but I would not choose this before any other more vibrant and simultaneously gentle (harmonious?) tea fragrances.

This reminds me of the perfume which “hangs” around a strange rich lady who is placidly looking at the same painting as you at a museum. You can tell that she is not friendly and she doesn’t notice you at all, even though you are no more than inches away. She is in her own calm, insulated and isolated world.

Like warm ice.

 

Providence Perfume Co. Divine Noir

12 May

Divine Noir is sweet, woody, earthy, balsamic, warm, tangy, and aromatic. It smells like a complex artisan root beer with a spritz of bergamot and a shot of patchouli-infused wheat grass mixed into it. It is such a beautiful offering of naturally sweet and aromatic earthiness, I feel like eating it would make me stronger and more beautiful.

It is spicy, smooth, rich and deep, but its vibrant botanical quality lends the ingredients a translucency, which prevents it from ever becoming too much. In the dead of summer I could see it being a little too heavy, but on the right person, Divine Noir is so balanced and unique that it could easily be dressed up or down. The juice is dark (obviously) so be careful when applying because if you spray directly to a small area, it can temporarily stain skin the color of sunless tanner, until your next shower. Don’t let this deter you. Just spray over a larger area so the color isn’t concentrated like a splotch, and always apply before you dress, and you’ll be fine.

Divine Noir is an invisible door you can open into a private exotic environment. It’s like chocolate and wine-colored velvet curtains draped behind antique paned-glass windows. It’s a fragrance for feeling centered and confident while at the same time welcoming and alluring.  That said, it’s definitely not a perfume  for everyone, and probably not for most, which could be a good or bad thing depending on what you are looking for.

The bergamot and patchouli are prevalent in the opening, as well as the sarsaparilla and well, countless other things! Ahhh! It’s blowing my mind!

It honestly took me a while to find my footing in Divine Noir (as it is VERY strong and bold with good sillage and excellent longevity), but once I did, I could not stop sniffing the part of my arm I had sprayed. The most gorgeous vanilla emerges in the dry down; what a stunning finish to an incredible journey.

the difference

L’Occitane La Collection de Grasse: The Vert & Bigarade

11 May

The Vert & Bigarade is my favorite Green Tea centered fragrance to date. The tea is crisp and smooth, never bitter.

The bitter orange is not strong at all, and merely acts as a stage hand to round out the fullness of the refreshing green tea. I hardly notice it. This one is more of a single note fragrance than the original The Vert which has a very prominent lemon especially in the opening. I strongly prefer The Vert & Bigarade to the original. It is what The Vert should have been.

I don’t know how it compares to Elizabeth Arden’s green tea collection, but as far as tea fragrances go, I think I actually also prefer TV&B to L’Artisan’s The Pour un Ete, though it is lovely in its own right, and also features a green tea accented by citrus. The Pour un Ete starts off with a sweeter and more gentle lemon than the lemon tea combo in The Vert, and the dry down of The Pour un Ete is a more prominently jasmine-green tea.

The Vert & Bigarade stays pretty linear on my skin: Straight smooth and sparkling green tea all the way. I might drink it. It has very good longevity for a green tea fragrance. Applied in early evening, I can still smell it on my skin the following morning. It’s projection is average. The dry down is a rich matcha green tea. So beautiful! Well done, L’Occitane!

I love to layer this translucent light green scent with Pacifica’s Island Vanilla to make a matcha green tea ice cream fragrance. Wonderfully simple and well done. Great for casual daily wear as with most green tea fragrances (and L’Occitane fragrances for that matter). Do not say that green tea has been done to death before trying this one out.

All the pics From the Old Computer 1331

Atelier Cologne Vetiver Fatal

21 Feb

Vetiver Fatal by Atelier Cologne smells like the entire plum tree, in the way L’Artisan’s Premier Figuier smells like the entire fig tree: limbs, leaves, fruit and roots.

It opens with a cedary citrusy almost barbershop tonic, which quickly transforms into the sweet earthy freshness of dark purple fruits and leaves. There is nothing overly pungent about this plum tree, and as others have noted, it is surprisingly smooth.

Once the nectar-like quality of the plum begins to calm down, it is replaced by a creamier, earthier incarnation of itself, with the brown/pink sweetness of Haitian vetiver, and a combination of greenly spicy woods.

This perfectly balanced fragrance goes through fluid yet distinct phases, each one thoroughly enjoyable. Definitely unisex.

Sillage is average, and longevity is somewhat low, but it comes in a very large and tasteful bottle, so you can apply it liberally.

In the dry down it is a sweet earthy scent, like sun warmed fruit and blossoms among leaves.

Vetiver Fatal is the feeling of sweet green shade. It is the sensation of hearing that your flight to Key West is now boarding. It is catharsis and excitement. It is ready to GO! (and never look back).

Tasha Pilot-Slow

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