Tag Archives: chypre

by Kilian Bamboo Harmony

22 May

Bamboo Harmony starts off with promising hints of citrus and sweet floral notes, but rapidly becomes an unexceptional (dusty) powdery floral tea-centered fragrance. I much prefer Water Calligraphy to this, though with Water Calligraphy, the emphasis is on sparkling sunny florals instead of tea, bergamot, and green grassy notes.

After the delightful opening, Bamboo Harmony quickly morphs into a powdery floral, and then the tea really comes out full force, but still cloaked in this powdery floral veil with a hint of ambiguous spice.

The white tea has a somewhat nose-tingling bitter element as if it has been a little over-steeped, and then cooled/muted to make iced tea, so that the notes go a little flat on my skin.

In the dry down, there is a powdery musk and the tea continues to permeate with its subtle yet persistent bite. The dry down is actually quite pleasant and ends as green as they come, but I would not choose this before any other more vibrant and simultaneously gentle (harmonious?) tea fragrances.

This reminds me of the perfume which “hangs” around a strange rich lady who is placidly looking at the same painting as you at a museum. You can tell that she is not friendly and she doesn’t notice you at all, even though you are no more than inches away. She is in her own calm, insulated and isolated world.

Like warm ice.

 

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella: Melograno

28 Mar

I have been wearing Melograno for years but never attempted to describe it. It was gifted to me by a close friend and was one of the first fragrances I ever owned, so I was wearing it well before I understood doodly squat about thinking of fragrance in terms of classifications like chypres, note pyramids, and the idea of notes in the first place.

Instead I thought of all fragrances in terms of the colors they evoked in my head. Since then, I have learned a little more, so I’ll give it a shot. Melograno is no longer just the powdery opalescent white layered over burgundy fragrance it once appeared to be. Now when I smell it, I see rainbows. That may sound sentimental, but I really do.

Melograno opens with a sharp, spicy-green, soapy powder with a sweetish/bitter tinge. There is no “true to life” anything in Melograno. It doesn’t even smell like true to life baby powder, though the powder aspect is very prominent. The green is a dry, spicy green, not a lush verdant one; it’s very classic-smelling. The citrus is barely there in the top notes if at all. The rose/orris root is cool and soapy. The patchouli and vetiver are earthy and sweet, but run no risk of obscuring the other elements.

A trace of warmth comes through from the amber, ylang and tobacco, but this fragrance is so well blended and has so much dynamism that it really just IS. Though its notes are not so easy to separate, and are not “true to life”, they aren’t trying to be. Melograno smells like itself, and nothing else. It smells calm, wise and stern.

There is an entire world living inside Melograno, and in that respect I think it actually is very much like a pomegranate, though I am generally not too concerned with names and their accuracy. It fuses seamlessly with my own skin’s scent, but there is also so much complexity that I feel like I can peer into it and never get bored.

Melograno is like a woman who has seen it all. I could sit around admiring her all day.

All the pics From the Old Computer 1332

Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses

19 Mar

Liaisons Dangereuses is like jumping up and down on the king-sized bed when you’re not supposed to.

It would be perfect for the girl who has everything, because it smells like a symbolic summation of everything she has.

It’s the irresistible beauty of youth, the freedom of wealth, and the gift of originality. The lovely and knowledgeable Kilian reps at Saks were so wonderful to let me try a sample. Thank you so much Kim and Will!

Liaisons Dangereuses opens with freshly sliced peaches, followed by delicate baby powder surrounding the crisp green leaves of one of the most gorgeous roses I have ever smelled in a fragrance! It literally made me see fireworks in my head.

As it warms up on my skin, all of the notes fuse into an intoxicating translucent Summer hue, with the black currants really coming into focus in the dry down.

It smells like the appearance of golden orange orchid petals, or the scented powder my mom gave me before I had ever worn a perfume, making me feel indescribably pretty and sophisticated.

It’s like a young girl proudly tromping and wobbling through the house wearing her older sister’s high heels.

I don’t care what the name is, or how much it costs.. I even forgot what I was supposed to be doing today.

Liaisons Dangereuses takes you firmly yet softly and wipes your slate clean. Just like that.

It doesn’t last very long, but nothing of this caliber ever seems to. Would you even want it to? How would anything ever get done? All I’m really saying is,

WOOOOO!…that’s good stuff.

Puredistance M

13 Mar

M by Puredistance is a cowboy.

M starts off with sweet and salty leather, and warm smoky spices. There is an earthiness which smells like freshly cured leather and vetiver.

The color of the leather pulses like a neutron star in the night. At times, the leather is sweeter and spicier with carnation, cinnamon and labdanum, at times it is more earthy and green with oakmoss, rose, vetiver and patchouli.

M is potent, unified yet multi-faceted, and unforgiving. It projects over the river and through the woods, and it lasts all the way to grandmother’s house. Look out, grandma! The wolf is on his way.

M is a dark, masculine, and seductive character who is known by a letter instead of his full name; that is the gravitas of his mysterious, alluring personality.

Spicy sweet, smoky, salty, earthy, LEATHER.
The florals add to the incense quality of the spices, but all in all this is a leather-centered fragrance. Where would a cowboy be without his cows?

I would ride off into the Sunset smelling this on my skin. If only fairy tales were real.

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