Tag Archives: cinnamon

Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur

14 Apr

Musc Ravageur is an entire family of wild raccoons that have found their way into the vanilla pudding cups in my pantry. Yes, this has actually happened to me, so I know what it smells like.

Musc Ravageur lasts 12+ hours on my skin with just two sprays in cool weather, and the raccoon/pudding phase lasts for at least the first six, with 1 parts raccoon and two parts pudding.

At around the six hour-mark, the vanilla pudding cups (the kind that don’t require refrigeration)are replaced by amber so that the musk is now pairing with an element which amounts to something much more agreeable to my stomach than a sweet milk note.

I sighed with relief when the amber emerged in the second half of this long and arduous journey. At no point did I find it sexy, sensual, or empowering.

I did find it naughty, but in the furry-tailed, beady-eyed, turning my pantry into a gigantic sticky mess kind of naughty. Not the lacy thong in tangled sheets kind of naughty.

Fragrances can create that impression for me, but NOT Musc Ravageur. I kept telling myself that it wasn’t that bad, and that it would be over soon; not exactly my preferred mantra when trying out a new fragrance.

I think this would be great for any occasion where you are wanting desperately to smell from vanilla or something rich and sweet, but can NOT allow yourself to smell like straight vanilla because it is too “blah” or “girly” for you. Slap a wild animal right on top of that vanilla with MR and you are so good to go.

window painting

Tauer Perfumes Pentachord: Auburn

4 Apr

If this fragrance had only been named, Fruit-Scented Erasers, Christopher Brosius would have nothing on Andy Tauer.

When I was a kid, I had a collection of erasers that were colored and shaped like little fruits, and were supposed to smell like fruit, but they just smelled artificially sweet, and mildly bitter in an off sort of way, and still very much like normal erasers. This is the essence of Pentachord: Auburn.

Pentachord Auburn is cinnamon/tobacco/plastic chewing gum. It smells like the glow of a back-lit, matte-orange hue. It’s like being inside of the orange tunnel on the playground, re-appropriated from raw manufacturing materials, or climbing the wrong direction up the spiraling orange plastic slide at the end of the monkey bars.

It’s a combination of notes from childhood, combined to smell like something very grown up, if not altogether industrial. Cinnamon (sweeter than spicy),  loud synthetic-smelling amber, and very sweet tobacco with orange flower water and rubber. It projects moderately and has fantastic longevity, remaining pretty linear after the opening calms down.

There is nothing “natural” smelling about Auburn, though I don’t dislike this about it. I feel quite comfortable breathing it into my lungs, but only because it is being presented to me as a fragrance. If I were to encounter this scent in an industrial setting or permeating the air in a warehouse or storage facility, I’m pretty sure I’d be terrified.

I first tested this while exploring a glass blowing facility, and am basing this review on my second wearing, not that first one. However, the smokiness in the air of the glass studio combined amazingly with Auburn, making me think it might layer beautifully with a dry, smoky wood-centered fragrance.

Kilian In the Garden of Good and Evil: Forbidden Games

25 Mar

Forbidden Games smells like freshly sliced fuji apples drizzled with honey along with a tiny lil’ puff of peach baby powder with a hint of canned cranberry sauce. Not homemade cranberry sauce…CANNED.

I was feeling down the other night so I took the wonderful sample of Forbidden Games given to me by the lovely and generous Kilian reps at Saks, and emptied half of it running around my bedroom spritzing FG in all directions.

After returning to my bed, I thought, “Ahh… I have discovered the best use for Forbidden Games: Room Spray.” Of course I don’t have the money to use anything remotely expensive as room spray, but in a vacuum, Forbidden Games would be my go-to in order to lift my spirits.

On the subject of “spirits”, wearing FG on my body is an entirely different story. I want this amazingly awesome room spray of a fragrance to lift me up and comfort me at the same time, but instead it falls flat. It does that sharp, “static shock up-your-nose” thing that some peachy fruity frags do, and I couldn’t detect any complexity. as I said before: Flat.

Similarly to how Flower of Immortality is a kind of super soft, fleeting and elusive “fragrance spirit”, Forbidden Games also escapes me with it’s nothing projection and disappointing longevity.

I want the lady from the movie Poltergeist or perhaps the priest from The Exorcist to come and do a reading of me, to see if there has been any PERFUME ACTIVITY GOING ON UP IN HERE. They are professional (well, actors…), but in-character, they alone would be able to detect Forbidden Games on my skin after two hours, or hanging in the air in my bedroom…
the morning after.

Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses

19 Mar

Liaisons Dangereuses is like jumping up and down on the king-sized bed when you’re not supposed to.

It would be perfect for the girl who has everything, because it smells like a symbolic summation of everything she has.

It’s the irresistible beauty of youth, the freedom of wealth, and the gift of originality. The lovely and knowledgeable Kilian reps at Saks were so wonderful to let me try a sample. Thank you so much Kim and Will!

Liaisons Dangereuses opens with freshly sliced peaches, followed by delicate baby powder surrounding the crisp green leaves of one of the most gorgeous roses I have ever smelled in a fragrance! It literally made me see fireworks in my head.

As it warms up on my skin, all of the notes fuse into an intoxicating translucent Summer hue, with the black currants really coming into focus in the dry down.

It smells like the appearance of golden orange orchid petals, or the scented powder my mom gave me before I had ever worn a perfume, making me feel indescribably pretty and sophisticated.

It’s like a young girl proudly tromping and wobbling through the house wearing her older sister’s high heels.

I don’t care what the name is, or how much it costs.. I even forgot what I was supposed to be doing today.

Liaisons Dangereuses takes you firmly yet softly and wipes your slate clean. Just like that.

It doesn’t last very long, but nothing of this caliber ever seems to. Would you even want it to? How would anything ever get done? All I’m really saying is,

WOOOOO!…that’s good stuff.

Jo Malone Sugar & Spice Collection: Ginger Biscuit

17 Mar

Discount Snickerdoodles and Vanilla-Spice tea…

Ginger Biscuit opens with a distinct sweet milk note, like the milk remaining in the bowl after the sugar-coated cereal is gone.

There’s a dusting of spices through its development: cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg, but it really is just a light dusting. A vanilla snickerdoodle cookie brimming with artificial ingredients and a visible sprinkling of spices on top. I am also reminded of artificial vanilla-spice tea bags, though there’s no actual black tea note here.

Ginger Biscuit does not smell like true to life cookies, which is not necessarily a bad thing. However, like a few other of Jo Malone’s weaker offerings, e.g. French Lime Blossom, Vintage Gardenia, and the rest of the Sugar & Spice collection (with the exception of Bitter Orange & Chocolate), Ginger Biscuit suffers from a surreal transparency – the overall composition just seems to miss the mark.

GB projects pretty poorly so you can wear it wherever, whenever. I can’t imagine it offending anyone. It reminds me of Bond No 9′ I Love New York For All, sans the black pepper, leather, and monster projection.

Ginger Biscuit lasts a good long while, and if you dig artificially flavored mildly spiced cookies, this could be your (go-to fragrance for a) cup of tea.

Personally, I would go for JM’s Dark Amber & Ginger Lily, or L’Occitane’s Eau des Baux if I were in the mood for a soothing spiced vanilla.

On the other hand, I could see Ginger Biscuit layering beautifully with the majority of the fruit-centered JM offerings, (I’ll bet the English Pear and Freesia layers with this amazingly) so if you love all things JM, this one is worth a sniff.

Puredistance M

13 Mar

M by Puredistance is a cowboy.

M starts off with sweet and salty leather, and warm smoky spices. There is an earthiness which smells like freshly cured leather and vetiver.

The color of the leather pulses like a neutron star in the night. At times, the leather is sweeter and spicier with carnation, cinnamon and labdanum, at times it is more earthy and green with oakmoss, rose, vetiver and patchouli.

M is potent, unified yet multi-faceted, and unforgiving. It projects over the river and through the woods, and it lasts all the way to grandmother’s house. Look out, grandma! The wolf is on his way.

M is a dark, masculine, and seductive character who is known by a letter instead of his full name; that is the gravitas of his mysterious, alluring personality.

Spicy sweet, smoky, salty, earthy, LEATHER.
The florals add to the incense quality of the spices, but all in all this is a leather-centered fragrance. Where would a cowboy be without his cows?

I would ride off into the Sunset smelling this on my skin. If only fairy tales were real.

Ineke Evening Edged in Gold

4 Mar

Evening Edged in Gold is a fragrance power animal, though I employ the term “power animal” here, in the most abstract sense of the concept: Mysterious and seemingly generated with the intention to give certain individuals tremendous strengths.

EEIG opens with mildly sweet, slightly under-ripe plums against dark wood and leather. If you don’t like leather in your fragrances, steer clear. This combination of notes results in new, barely cured, slightly salty, large green olives. The wood present in the opening reminds me of old wooden rafters in an art studio.

Evening Edged in Gold smells a little like strangely intoxicating flowers against a backdrop of fresh white paint in a large open studio with one wall of exposed brick and skylights. There are tubes of paint on rolling shelves and large canvases on wooden racks lining the walls. There is no one here.

Evening Edged in Gold is a quiet fragrance, though it has a firm presence. Projection and longevity are pretty good. It is softly dark, like an art studio closed for the night. All of its potential is presently at rest. I find it extremely unique, but also perfectly wearable. Easily unisex.

I would wear this for an occasion where I wanted to console myself while asserting my independence. Writing in a coffee shop or taking a solo trip to explore a new neighborhood. It is introspective without being distracting.

It is a wonderful treatment of soft, dry, earthy leather. It is deliberate but airy. The initial burst of sweetness in the opening which appears periodically throughout the development and in the dry down, reminds me of the darkness and sweetness of finished works of art, at rest in storage. They are quietly vibrating with their individual energies, like those things in nature that are beautiful but somehow manage to exist without demanding any recognition. In the dry down, a synergy of the notes takes place.

The dry down reminds me slightly of a more subtle, more tastefully executed, fluid, harmonious, and fresh/natural relative of Tom Ford’s Black Orchid. The dry down is really complementary to the natural scent of skin. Out of all of the fragrances Ineke was kind enough to let me experience, this is by far my favorite.

A rare and inspired, self-sufficient dark beauty.

Tasha Pilot-Slow

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