Tag Archives: Coconut

Tuberose Challenge: Bond No 9’s I Love New York Earth Day vs. Frederic Malle’s Carnal Flower

11 Apr

I did a side by side comparison of I Love New York Earth Day and Carnal Flower, since both are powerful green tuberose fragrances. I Love New York Earth Day is more homogeneous, exceedingly smooth, and the green aspect here is sweeter and translucent, though the fragrance overall is declarative and a great projector.

Pronounced as it is, Earth day has zero sharp edges and rough spots. It’s not even grounded next to Carnal Flower. It’s more like a luminous tuberose liquid, or something that hovers in the air.I find it to be an extremely wearable floral with great longevity, but after a time, something subtly generic/synthetic-smelling emerges in the base, which makes me lean in favor of Carnal Flower’s superior ingredients and crisp, articulated profile. Synthetic hues have no place in this particular green soliflore. Over time, the smooth elixir quality of Earth Day continues to sublimate into an ephemeral and relatively unremarkable state, while Carnal Flower retains its dimension and unwavering decisiveness.

Carnal flower is standing firmly planted on the ground: High heels, ballgown, and hand held way out in front of her to “yield”. Carnal Flower is majestic as #&%@! She’s compositionally layered and dynamic, multi-faceted, sweet, green, vibrant, sparkling, rich, and you can not sneak past her. She’s right in the middle of the cross-walk, with textural green elements containing an almost mentholated tinge. She warns you that you better wear her before she wears you; a challenge you gladly accept. She is daring you to dodge her, to get around her, but you know you’ll never succeed. Better just to surrender. Alright, Carnal Flower. Game over.. you win.


Jo Malone Sugar & Spice Collection: Bitter Orange & Chocolate

17 Mar

Bitter Orange & Chocolate is BEYOND GOURMAND.

It opens with amazingly true to life candied orange peels dipped in rich dark chocolate. I can almost see and taste them.

Out of all the offerings from Jo Malone’s Sugar & Spice collection, Bitter Orange & Chocolate is BY FAR the most true to its name, and the most original. I say it is beyond gourmand, not because it is ridiculously sweet (it’s not), but because it is more like an olfactory mirage than a fragrance.

It doesn’t project very far, but that’s fine since I don’t want to share this coveted chocolate with the entire room. They can get their own! BO&C lasts a long time for a JM, with a sweet milk note emerging in the dry down.

It is really difficult to do an authentic chocolate and candied orange peel scent in perfumery, but JM succeeds. This is one of a kind.

It is such a succinct and literal interpretation of candied orange and dark chocolate, I am not even sure when I would wear this. Probably whenever I felt like it. 10/10.

Aquolina Gold Sugar

13 Mar

Jelly Belly jelly bean candies feature “recipe ideas” on the backs of their bags, which are very similar to the fragrance layering concept.

The idea goes something like this:
Hot Cinnamon Jelly Belly + Green Apple Jelly Belly=
Apple Pie!

Lemon Jelly Belly + Cream Soda Jelly Belly=
Lemon Meringue Pie!

I think the notes in Gold Sugar by Aquolina have a similar quality, and the outcome is a complete recipe for a tropical vanilla CGI milkshake. Gold Sugar is a great example of the Japanese concept of Kawaii, meaning “adorable in a cool way.”

Gold Sugar starts off with diet lemon-lime soda in the opening, and a generic coconut-flavored jelly bean note… not exceptionally creamy yet, but extremely sweet.

Once it opens on my skin, faint and pretty CGI florals appear, as well as a creaminess which is half-way between a bubble bath, and a vanilla ice cream or cream soda-scented body lotion.

Once the diet lime soda fades, the heart reveals a warm almost spicy sweetness on top of the milkiness which really does smell like a loose interpretation of vanilla custard with caramelized sugar on top. Maybe it’s vanilla custard realized as a scented lotion or a candle… or, a fragrance.. Miles from the real thing, but pleasant nonetheless.

Gold Sugar projects well and the warm sugary milk scent goes on and on. The diet lime soda in the opening had me suspicious, but once it calms down, it’s a creamy vanilla (jelly)bean…

If this really was a jelly bean, I would save it for last along with my other favorite flavors. I bet it would combine really well with the peach…

Sarah Horowitz Parfums Perfect Coconut Milk

27 Feb

Perfect Coconut Milk sometimes makes me think of Perfect Car Air Freshener.

I can see myself standing on the other side of the glass at the car wash, watching large rubber slats bombard my dad’s wood-paneled minivan with lather, as the sweet coconut smell of air fresheners, fuzzy dice, and foot well carpets make their presence known on the fluorescent-lit wall behind me.

Fortunately, there is more going on in this fragrance than that.

Perfect Coconut Milk opens with sweet marzipan candy. The nutty marzipan strikes a nice balance with the salty sweetness of the coconut and vanilla. Thanks to SHP for the lovely sample.

However, as Perfect Coconut Milk warms up on my skin, the gardenia comes out into the open. This is a light, transparent, ethereal and true to life gardenia.

The gardenia does a great job of cutting the heaviness of the almonds. It’s a nice surprise, considering that gardenia is responsible for the heaviness in many fragrances which include it.

Though the coconut itself smells somewhat synthetic, as does something in the sheer sweetness of the fragrance, this in itself is not necessarily a bad thing. Despite its initial sweeter than life quality, the composition is harmonious, and it opens up into something surprisingly lovely, warm, balanced, and wearable though not delicate.

If it weren’t in the form of a fragrance oil, it would make a great room spray, since the sillage is very good. In the dry down of Perfect Coconut Milk, a lot of its original dimension disappears, leaving behind a sweet, warm musk that lasts for hours.

If you love almonds, tropical gourmands, and aren’t a bit deterred by synthetic baby doll types of scents, this one is definitely worth exploring.

Tasha Pilot-Slow

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