Tag Archives: Grapefruit fragrance

Jo Malone Grapefruit

27 Mar

Grapefruit is the perfect “morning” scent. It is dressed to the nines, briefcase in hand, checking the time and out the door to work. Look out, world… It’s Grapefruit!!!

Um…okay.

This is one of the most masculine-leaning grapefruits I have experienced so far. That said, it is still totally unisex to me. The dry spice and transparent earthiness make it feel like a light, refreshing face tonic.

I could see Grapefruit layering beautifully or working as a light everyday office scent (provided that you enjoy grapefruit of course). It does not project very far, so that’s also good for the office depending on where you work, and it’s longevity is great for a JM.

Grapefruit stands out to me because unlike other masculine/unisex citrus oriented scents on the market today, JM shows us a natural-smelling rendition of notes and their relationships. It’s not overly-simplistic but it also doesn’t smell abstract or synthetic.

My overall impression is  signature Jo Malone. I can immediately detect the way in which Grapefruit is a cousin to Lime Basil & Mandarin, as well as Amber & Lavender. This ability to create distinct scents while maintaining a signature feeling throughout is to me, a sign of a strong identity and consistent quality.

The person who wears this by itself is not interested in a scent that evolves and transforms dramatically over time. This is just a pretty compliment to the skin. True to life citrus, a hint of pepper and some aromatic herbs.

If you feel “out of it” this will wake you right up, and lift your spirits. Good morning! Now get out there and make us all proud.

Fresh Hesperides vs. Sugar Lychee

21 Feb

Hesperides by Fresh smells like a pleasantly scented grapefruit Summer magic play set or unicorn toy for girls. It smells like a grapefruit vitamin C lozenge (minus the menthol). It is sweet, though not in a cloying or excessively cheap way, but there is no depth whatsoever to this fragrance. It is a matte, pale yellow grapefruit pillow. It would be a nice first perfume for a girl between the ages of 8 and 12.

If I had to choose between Hesperides and Sugar Lychee, I would definitely go with the Sugar Lychee. Though it is also synthetic, somewhat linear and lacking in depth, something about that particular rendition of lychee makes it fresh, palatable, and quite memorable, capable of transcending the boundaries of its target audience. It’s a tall glass of pink lemonade Kool-aid. Sometimes that’s just what the heart wants.

Grapefruit Challenge: Three Ways

21 Feb

I compared three grapefruit fragrances today: Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermes, Guerlain’s Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune, and Hesperides by Fresh.


Eau de Pamplemousee Rose is a bright authentic citrus, beginning with fresh sour and sweet juice and the bitterness of the peel, like a halved yellow grapefruit served in a crystal dish. The grapefruit starts off sharp and natural, but is quickly softened with gentle florals in a crystal vase in the background. This is an elegant scent that is so true to a real grapefruit, I almost expected my wrist to be sticky from the juice.

As it wears on, the sharpness of the grapefruit fades but the sweetness remains, and one is left with a Sun warmed citrus-floral, like waiting on a bench in perfect weather while your friend returns from getting some ice cream.

Hesperides smells like a pleasantly scented grapefruit toy for girls. It smells like a grapefruit vitamin C lozenge. It is sweet though not in a cloying or excessively cheap way, but there is no depth whatsoever to this fragrance. It is a matte, pale yellow grapefruit pillow. It would be a nice first perfume for a girl between the ages of 8 and 12.

Guerlain’s Acqua Allegoria Pamplelune smells much less realistic than Eau de Pamplemousee Rose. On my skin, Pamplelune’s grapefruit is layered with a subtle ammonia-like almost urine element, which might be a failed attempt at the bitterness of the grapefruit peel, an (off) green aspect, or some sort of pepper/earth note. It is quite unpleasant, and the ammonia element persists throughout the dry-down.

Eau de Pamplemousee Rose has pretty poor longevity, though this means you can keep applying it throughout the day in order to relive that juicy opening. In my opinion, EDC is the perfect concentration for this fragrance, because true to life citrus is most refreshing when experienced in short bursts.

Brooks Brothers New York Gentleman

21 Feb

Brooks Brothers was generous enough to accommodate me with a small bottle of New York Gentleman, the masculine counterpart to New York for Ladies. NYG has the peppery opening of a 40 watt light bulb (powered by true to life verbena and bergamot), which gradually dims down to a comforting green glow stick, emitting a trace of warmth from spice and vetiver. At one point, it feels like it almost wants to turn aquatic, but veers away just in time. Whew…

The citrus is front and center in this fragrance and has the same exact bone structure and fashion sense as someone you used to know but can’t quite place. It reminds me of the vetiver/rosemary dynamic in Jo Malone’s Grapefruit, and the dry down reminds me of L’Eau de L’Artisan, due to that verbena-woody moss combo, which is much cleaner in NYG, and mustier/melancholy in L’Eau de L’Artisan.

Jo Malone’s Grapefruit and L’Eau de L’Artisan both don’t sit quite right on me. The Grapefruit in JM seems at odds with the spice/rosemary and vetiver as if the grapefruit had been scribbled over with a pen that only pulls ink some of the time, and not when you want it to.
The verbena/herbs in L’Artisan remind me of visiting an empty band shell in Central Park when everything is shrouded in mist.I don’t get the uplifting feeling from it that so many seem to experience.

New York Gentleman on the other hand, is a steady, uncompromised, herbal-citrus glow. It is dry and fresh without being sharp or aftershave-like, and more masculine and complex than L’Occitane’s Verbena due to the vetiver.

It’s in the same family as JM Grapefruit and L’Eau de L’Artisan, but this uncannily familiar and understated fragrance succeeds for me where the other two failed: it sits just right. It is by no means groundbreaking, but who cares? Apply it, enjoy it, and get on with your day.

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