Tag Archives: Grapefruit

Cedre Parfums 06130

22 May

Cedre is a wood and flower ghost fragrance.  It reminds me of a Shirley Jackson novel. It is amazing to me how many forms a Cedre fragrance can have. This one surprised me with its ethereal character.

A very light, pretty, powdery cedar with a faint barbershop quality from the violet. Despite its barbershop leanings, Cedre could be worn with ease by a man or a woman, because it is soft and slightly sweet.

It is very light, and well-blended so that the voilet, musk and cedar all weigh in about equally. Its projection is low and it does not last very long, but it would be appropriate for any occasion as a result. Maybe not for a loud party. Then again, who knows?

Cedre is the whispering voice of a beautiful female ghost who wanders the halls of an old bed & breakfast outside of town. She retreats to the lace of the curtains on the windows, but comes out to breathe her delicate sweet perfume right before you round the corner to discover no one is there.

By Kilian Water Calligraphy

14 May

Water Calligraphy is a masterfully blended aquatic floral.

Magnolia and grapefruit pop out right in the opening, giving the composition a glorious sparkling warmth. The cardamom gives it a slightly spicy edge, and the water lily and vetiver give it a lush translucency.
It has a large, rich peachy sillage, good longevity, and the whole thing positively glows, like an expensive married woman on a relaxed afternoon brunch with her grownup daughter. Or maybe it is the expensive grownup daughter who is wearing Water Calligraphy. It is a fragrance they could easily share.

This fragrance is extremely floral and Sunny sweet, so if you shy away from sweet white floral frags, this may not be for you.

The soapy, powdery and aquatic notes really emerge full-force in the dry down, which is admittedly not so exciting as far as dry downs go, but it remains easy to wear, right through to the end.  I see this fragrance as a sparkly fuchsia and tangerine colored aura.  If Pegasuses were real,  luminous trails of Water Calligraphy would probably flow from their butts as they gracefully soared through the clouds.

I tend to dislike aquatic notes in fragrances, but Kilian pulls them off well in this summery feminine composition. I wouldn’t buy it myself but I will probably use my whole sample, which is more that I can say for a lot of perfumes.

pink girls

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

10 Apr

Have you ever inflated a pair of plastic water wings, an inner-tube, or a kiddie pool using just the air from your lungs. This is the scent of the opening to Vetiver Dance.

Vetiver Dance opens with sharp green and plastic notes, along with black pepper and big fat vetiver. There is something very synthetic and almost toxic mingling with the earth, spice, and warm greens in the opening.

The plastic-smelling note is very familiar but I can’t quite put my finger on it. It reminds me of the air trapped inside of a bath toy that is too old and starting to deteriorate.

Once Vetiver Dance starts to calm down, lilly of the valley emerges and weaves through the green, plastic, and earth. At this point it has become considerably less peppery and sharp.

The dry down is the most redeeming part of Vetiver Dance. It reminds me a little of walking down a path through the woods after the rain. There are wet earth notes, cedar, and warm green notes as well as a bit of sunlight peeking through the clouds. The plastic is no longer present.The dry down is very pleasant. Projection is pretty good, longevity is excellent. It feels like a very Summery fragrance to me.

Is it worth all of that sharp artificial (albeit interesting) tumult for the beautiful warm, earthy green dry down? I’ll leave that up to you, but personally, I would go with Grey Flannel or Hermes’s Eau de Gentiane Blanche if I wanted a unisex-type, flowery, verdant bomb of a fragrance. I could do without that half-inflated kiddie pool.

Note: “interesting” and “beautiful” are not opposed to one another in my mind, but sometimes they can both be present without being equivalent. In the case of Vetiver Dance, it’s interesting qualities do not highlight its beauty for me.

Red Flower Organic Perfume Guaiac

17 Mar

This fragrance is bright citrus Christmas.

Guaiac by Red Flower Organic Perfume reminds me of a holiday gift basket filled with large, perfectly ripe grapefruits resting on a table with a centerpiece made from bundles of assorted twigs tied with red ribbons. There is a fireplace in the room that is used regularly but the fire is not burning in this fragrance, though the wood is slightly charred.This grapefruit is not spicy, so the Christmas picture is only half there, but for this reason, I think Guaiac would be excellent for layering (though it does work on its own).

All the pics From the Old Computer 1328

I am not saying that this is a Winter frangrance. However, grapefruit is a Winter fruit, so that is in part, why Guaiac paints a Winter scene for me.

Guaiac is a very clean scent. It is a realistic fresh sweet grapefruit with faint undertones of woody notes which smell almost smoky or roasted, but not quite. They are hiding under a cloud of very true to life grapefruit, so it is difficult to pull them apart. As it opens on my skin, I can detect a faint tea rose in the background, in addition to the woods. This fragrance is very light, and would be great aromatherapy for anyone who enjoys real citrus with a few hints of something extra. Thank you to Red Flower for the beautiful sample.

Guaiac would also be perfect for someone who prefers essential oil blends to other types of fragrances. It would be good to wear while studying to improve concentration and clear one’s thoughts, calm the nerves, or to overcome nausea. Projection is very low, and longevity is average for an all-natural perfume. I wear it to bed because it puts me in a restful, meditative state.

Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay

7 Mar

A berry-scented flower in a used t-shirt?

Blackberry & Bay opens with very fresh bittersweet and sour dark berries. They are not true to life blackberries, but they don’t exactly smell artificial either. They smell like a fruity flower that has a berryish aroma.

Projection and longevity are both good. Longevity is excellent for Jo Malone, right up there with Pomegranite Noir.

Blackberry & Bay is warm, bitter, green and fruity. There is a tiny bit of soapiness under the berries.

As it develops on my skin, the fresh soap element amplifies and the berries seem to ripen, though they quickly begin to lose any distinctive “berry” character. The resulting aroma reminds me of smelling the armpits of a t-shirt to determine whether it can hold out for one more wearing before laundering.

B&B doesn’t actually smell like body odor, but it does smell a little like fabric softener mixed with an odd earthy-sweet “ripeness”. This continues through the dry down.

The un-naturally fresh, meets the naturally ripe.
I wonder how this would layer with Febreeze…

Chanel Bleu de Chanel

2 Mar

Bleu de Chanel has a very strong lemony citrus opening. It almost crosses into Pledge territory with the top notes, but there’s some spicy sweetness to temper it and keep it in check. The sourness of the lemon diminishes significantly after the first ten minutes, and the result is a pretty average masculine lemon and incense with woods composition. Projection and longevity are both pretty low. The drydown fades into sweet powdery woody incense. Ho hum..


Bleu de Chanel is a young professional who lives a comfortable life but is disconnected from it. He takes his dates to quaint fancy overcrowded restaurants which he loves reading about in his spare time. He makes good money, wears almost exclusively Banana Republic (because it’s nice and convenient), and his New Year’s resolution is always to find new hobbies such as: “figure out which type of music I enjoy.”

He is kind and friendly, but for some reason, he just isn’t the least bit sexy or seductive, even though he has a motorcycle.

He is physically unremarkable, and wholly unimpressive. Perhaps the World would be a better place if there were more people like him, or maybe it would just be more crowded. If I had to choose between offerings from Chanel, I would select Egoiste Platinum over Bleu de Chanel any day.

Just this side of “dime a dozen” (bonus points for niceness).

Ineke Gilded Lily

21 Feb

Thank you so much, Ineke for the gorgeous sample collection.

Gilded Lily is dark, sexy, and masculine, yet it miraculously manages to retain a powdery fresh quality, never becoming cloying or sour as it develops on the skin. It only continues to open ever more gracefully, warmed by labdanum in the base. This fragrance is unique and seamless from start to finish.

Gilded Lily perfume is a tough, beautiful, Japanese-Italian girl from Queens. She is exotic and petite, but there is something firm and masculine about her posture, even though she powders her face in the rearview of her car, wears iridescent dresses, glitter like shards of glass on her eyelids, and her wavy light brown hair flows down past her waist. Though she is young, she uses a cigarette holder with confidence, and often finds herself in cheap hotels with men twice her age. There is nothing cute about her. She is a Gilded Lily. She is at once graceful, unforgettable, and morose. She is so familiar it makes you want to weep, though you have never been able to meet her, even when you held her in your arms.

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