Tag Archives: labdanum

Parfum d`Empire Wazamba

12 Apr

If you desperately miss the forest, Wazamba is the perfect fragrance for you.

Wazamba opens with warm resinous dark green pine needles. I can see where the sap has hardened and turned opaque on the bark of the trunk, and where it still drips, fresh and potent.

As it warms up, the warm, dry and smoky authentic church incense and hints of fresh apple emerge to join along with the pine forming an absolutely gorgeous synergy. As it dries down, the almost peppery, woody incense takes the stage in all of its smoky sacred glory, along with occasional appearances of cypress. The final notes on me are a mild fruitiness and labdanum with the last traces of smoke..

Wazamba is welcoming, simmering and wearable. It projects decently but definitely is not a sillage monster. Will have to try again in summer.
I wouldn’t hesitate to wear Wazamba year round as it contains many of my favorite notes and is not too heavy. It has great longevity.

If you are the least bit reluctant to smell like a coniferous forest, you might consider this as an alternative means of scenting your home (as other reviewers have suggested), because it is so warm, natural, and inviting-smelling.

It’s also much less messy than moving all of your furniture into a cathedral and then covering the floor with pine needles.

airplanes

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

10 Apr

Have you ever inflated a pair of plastic water wings, an inner-tube, or a kiddie pool using just the air from your lungs. This is the scent of the opening to Vetiver Dance.

Vetiver Dance opens with sharp green and plastic notes, along with black pepper and big fat vetiver. There is something very synthetic and almost toxic mingling with the earth, spice, and warm greens in the opening.

The plastic-smelling note is very familiar but I can’t quite put my finger on it. It reminds me of the air trapped inside of a bath toy that is too old and starting to deteriorate.

Once Vetiver Dance starts to calm down, lilly of the valley emerges and weaves through the green, plastic, and earth. At this point it has become considerably less peppery and sharp.

The dry down is the most redeeming part of Vetiver Dance. It reminds me a little of walking down a path through the woods after the rain. There are wet earth notes, cedar, and warm green notes as well as a bit of sunlight peeking through the clouds. The plastic is no longer present.The dry down is very pleasant. Projection is pretty good, longevity is excellent. It feels like a very Summery fragrance to me.

Is it worth all of that sharp artificial (albeit interesting) tumult for the beautiful warm, earthy green dry down? I’ll leave that up to you, but personally, I would go with Grey Flannel or Hermes’s Eau de Gentiane Blanche if I wanted a unisex-type, flowery, verdant bomb of a fragrance. I could do without that half-inflated kiddie pool.

Note: “interesting” and “beautiful” are not opposed to one another in my mind, but sometimes they can both be present without being equivalent. In the case of Vetiver Dance, it’s interesting qualities do not highlight its beauty for me.

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella: Melograno

28 Mar

I have been wearing Melograno for years but never attempted to describe it. It was gifted to me by a close friend and was one of the first fragrances I ever owned, so I was wearing it well before I understood doodly squat about thinking of fragrance in terms of classifications like chypres, note pyramids, and the idea of notes in the first place.

Instead I thought of all fragrances in terms of the colors they evoked in my head. Since then, I have learned a little more, so I’ll give it a shot. Melograno is no longer just the powdery opalescent white layered over burgundy fragrance it once appeared to be. Now when I smell it, I see rainbows. That may sound sentimental, but I really do.

Melograno opens with a sharp, spicy-green, soapy powder with a sweetish/bitter tinge. There is no “true to life” anything in Melograno. It doesn’t even smell like true to life baby powder, though the powder aspect is very prominent. The green is a dry, spicy green, not a lush verdant one; it’s very classic-smelling. The citrus is barely there in the top notes if at all. The rose/orris root is cool and soapy. The patchouli and vetiver are earthy and sweet, but run no risk of obscuring the other elements.

A trace of warmth comes through from the amber, ylang and tobacco, but this fragrance is so well blended and has so much dynamism that it really just IS. Though its notes are not so easy to separate, and are not “true to life”, they aren’t trying to be. Melograno smells like itself, and nothing else. It smells calm, wise and stern.

There is an entire world living inside Melograno, and in that respect I think it actually is very much like a pomegranate, though I am generally not too concerned with names and their accuracy. It fuses seamlessly with my own skin’s scent, but there is also so much complexity that I feel like I can peer into it and never get bored.

Melograno is like a woman who has seen it all. I could sit around admiring her all day.

All the pics From the Old Computer 1332

Puredistance M

13 Mar

M by Puredistance is a cowboy.

M starts off with sweet and salty leather, and warm smoky spices. There is an earthiness which smells like freshly cured leather and vetiver.

The color of the leather pulses like a neutron star in the night. At times, the leather is sweeter and spicier with carnation, cinnamon and labdanum, at times it is more earthy and green with oakmoss, rose, vetiver and patchouli.

M is potent, unified yet multi-faceted, and unforgiving. It projects over the river and through the woods, and it lasts all the way to grandmother’s house. Look out, grandma! The wolf is on his way.

M is a dark, masculine, and seductive character who is known by a letter instead of his full name; that is the gravitas of his mysterious, alluring personality.

Spicy sweet, smoky, salty, earthy, LEATHER.
The florals add to the incense quality of the spices, but all in all this is a leather-centered fragrance. Where would a cowboy be without his cows?

I would ride off into the Sunset smelling this on my skin. If only fairy tales were real.

Chanel Bleu de Chanel

2 Mar

Bleu de Chanel has a very strong lemony citrus opening. It almost crosses into Pledge territory with the top notes, but there’s some spicy sweetness to temper it and keep it in check. The sourness of the lemon diminishes significantly after the first ten minutes, and the result is a pretty average masculine lemon and incense with woods composition. Projection and longevity are both pretty low. The drydown fades into sweet powdery woody incense. Ho hum..


Bleu de Chanel is a young professional who lives a comfortable life but is disconnected from it. He takes his dates to quaint fancy overcrowded restaurants which he loves reading about in his spare time. He makes good money, wears almost exclusively Banana Republic (because it’s nice and convenient), and his New Year’s resolution is always to find new hobbies such as: “figure out which type of music I enjoy.”

He is kind and friendly, but for some reason, he just isn’t the least bit sexy or seductive, even though he has a motorcycle.

He is physically unremarkable, and wholly unimpressive. Perhaps the World would be a better place if there were more people like him, or maybe it would just be more crowded. If I had to choose between offerings from Chanel, I would select Egoiste Platinum over Bleu de Chanel any day.

Just this side of “dime a dozen” (bonus points for niceness).

Ineke Gilded Lily

21 Feb

Thank you so much, Ineke for the gorgeous sample collection.

Gilded Lily is dark, sexy, and masculine, yet it miraculously manages to retain a powdery fresh quality, never becoming cloying or sour as it develops on the skin. It only continues to open ever more gracefully, warmed by labdanum in the base. This fragrance is unique and seamless from start to finish.

Gilded Lily perfume is a tough, beautiful, Japanese-Italian girl from Queens. She is exotic and petite, but there is something firm and masculine about her posture, even though she powders her face in the rearview of her car, wears iridescent dresses, glitter like shards of glass on her eyelids, and her wavy light brown hair flows down past her waist. Though she is young, she uses a cigarette holder with confidence, and often finds herself in cheap hotels with men twice her age. There is nothing cute about her. She is a Gilded Lily. She is at once graceful, unforgettable, and morose. She is so familiar it makes you want to weep, though you have never been able to meet her, even when you held her in your arms.

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