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LURK PRJ V1

25 Mar

PRJ V1 is the spirit of turning ten.

All natural, sweet, non-indolic jasmine with fresh cold roses, green stems, and a hint of petitgrain. PRJ V1 is simplistic, sweet, vibrant and green: three nice E.O.s working together in near perfect harmony.

It’s an uncluttered floral mixture that wears close to the skin but lasts for some time. Thanks to LURK for the beautiful sample.

This is a very simple, balanced, well-blended composition, though it does not transcend the sum of its parts. As it dries down, it starts to smell like expensive jasmine-rose soap. It is both relaxing and uplifting, if you enjoy the sweeter lighter side of natural jasmine, with a lush, aromatic green rose. The petitgrain and rose with the soft clear jasmine would make this perfect for Spring or Summer.

This fragrance is a 10 year old girl’s birthday. Not the party itself, but the spirit of turning double-digits for the first time. It is sweet, (but nothing at all like candy-sweet… she’s TEN now, got it!? A YOUNG LADY.) It’s energetic and joyful, but also very natural, green, new and uncomplicated.

It smells like an ample bouquet of roses with bright green stems, combined with fresh jasmine cuttings in a tall heavy crystal vase.

All that said, I might still attempt to make this myself, since I already  own  all three of those oils and I might want to make something in the same family if not very similar. However, if you’re not in the mood for experimentation, LURK  has already done it for you beautifully, like pre-sliced apples in the produce section of Wholefoods market.

I know there is a whole lot more to perfumery than chopping and wrapping (or there should be), but anything can be an art form if performed with a certain level of skill and intention.

Ready-made, powder-free flowers for a proud young beauty.

LURK AS01

12 Mar

AS01 by LURK is a spicy hot rose fragrance with a dry woody base.


AS 01 starts with a cold green natural smelling rose note, which heats up quickly on my skin with dry/hot spices. The spices are not throat-tingling; they are in excellent proportion to the rose. The tuberose here is barely there, just enough to give the cold rose a tiny bit of rounded sweetness. Light, fresh cedar grounds the composition, and prevents the acidity of the rose from giving me indigestion. Thank you Lurk, for the beautiful sample.

AS 01 is very well balanced with all the notes surrounding the cold rose, to heat it, sweeten it, and plant it on the ground. Projection and longevity are pretty poor as it is an all-natural fragrance, and it does have an essential oil mixture quality.


AS01 is a beautiful middle-aged woman in a bad mood, sitting alone at a cafe. The young waiter approaches her table to refill her water but when she looks up at him, he is so moved by her beauty, that he just stares at her motionless. This amuses her and for the first time that day, her fiery red painted lips form a slight smile.

LURK TBP V1

21 Feb

Thank you so much Lurk, for the gorgeous sample.
When I hold the test vial of TBP V1 to my nose, the first words that come to mind are: sour elixir.

TBP V1 is mysterious and grabs my attention. It slowly motions to me with one finger to “come closer…”
On first application, it is a spicy, dry balsamic floral, a powdery dry rose with a fluid black pepper opening.

TBP V1 is a quiet, metamorphic fragrance. It opens with black pepper stripped of its antagonistic properties. The muted florals fuse together with the pepper to create a tea-like harmony.

TBP V1 is a goodbye hug from the mother of my host family in Ankara. As I sink my nose into the fabric on her shoulder, I can smell the whole room, and the essence of my time there.

It contains the quality of a deep red rose that has dried, causing the petals to appear a cool matte burgundy that is almost black.

The dry down is a cool, dusty burgundy hue, more powdery than before, slightly bitter with a rose note, and something paler like peony, with twigs and leaves and some lingering spice. TBP V1 is a very natural interpretation of a spicy, dry balsamic floral.

Sillage is average, and longevity is quite good for an all-natural perfume. I honestly think it deserves some time to fully experience and appreciate, but these are my first impressions.

LURK RSW 005

21 Feb

Thank you for the lovely sample, Lurk. RSW 005 opens with big, bold, true to life red roses, complete with leaves and stems. The composition here is simple and quite lovely, like a nicely balanced blend of three high-quality essential oils, making this one of my favorites from the line. The particular concentration and type of sandalwood used, creates a beautiful frame for the rose. A trace of lemon trails along with the sandalwood in the dry down.

It has average projection for an all-natural perfume, and longevity is pretty poor. I always find myself disappointed when it has all but disappeared in under two hours. It feels completely unisex to me, because it is an earthy rose, smoothed by the sandalwood, and freshened by the lemon.

RSW 005 reminds me of Jo Malone’s Red Roses + sandalwood, resulting in a more delicate fragrance overall. I don’t usually wear roses, but find myself repeatedly reaching for this one. It’s just that fresh and beautiful. It’s a welcome alternative to all those “flawless” CGI rose/citrus/sandalwood compositions more widely available. Hurray for roses without musky security blankets! Though it doesn’t live forever, this lush red bouquet is the real deal for the duration of its short life.

LURK BS003

21 Feb

BS 003 by Lurk has an extremely mild opening, and remains very mild (though not weak or watery) throughout the duration of its development. Thank you very much, Lurk, for the beautiful sample.

BS 003 opens with the tiniest sliver of orange peel and sweet orange meat layered with what seems like bergamot essential oil, and in the background there is a mixture of freshly cut dry woods, which give a “someone is wearing citrus blend essential oil in the wood shop” sensation.

I applied a generous amount to my skin and this fragrance has almost NO SILLAGE. I have to put my nose close to my hand to smell it. Longevity is about average, but the transformations which take place in this fragrance are unexpected and noteworthy.

BS 003 is great if you are not feeling too well and still want to wear perfume without your stomach turning, or increasing your headache or having a sneeze attack. Though fine on its own, it is also ideal for layering, as I accidentally discovered when my sister spilled some Aventus on me during one of my several attempts to give this a review.

As it warms up on my skin, the notes blend together and the “wood shop” element loses what little edge it had in the opening, making it more pleasant.

Eventually, the orange and bergamot disappear, and one is left with the wood, which has surprisingly rounded out and clarified into a smooth sandalwood essential oil note. I love natural sandalwood variations from all over, and when the sandalwood emerges into plain view at the final stage of this fragrance, I applaud.

BS 003 does not make any kind of statement per se, rather, it is a gesture. Though I really enjoy it’s individual elements and it’s progression, it still lacks a certain transcendent cohesiveness which is akin to alchemy, and the mark of a work of greatness.

I believe it is possible to achieve a transcendent effect in natural perfumery without sacrificing simplicity. In the case of BS 003 however, I want it to get there and become more than the sum of its parts, and it never does. This doesn’t mean it’s not lovely, comforting, artfully constructed and well balanced, even sometimes a bit of a surprise, but it falls just short of magical.

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