Tag Archives: pink pepper

Dolce & Gabbana D&G Anthology: L’Imperatrice 3

22 May

This fragrance smells like a cross between a Strawberry Kiwi Snapple beverage, and a watermelon Jolly Rancher hard candy. However, it does not possess the kind of sweetness that makes me want to drink it instead of wear it. I also find it to be less cloying than some of the summer Escada scents, so for anyone who enjoys those but feels they are a little “much”, this has a similar tropical fruit candy feel and is a great alternative. It also reminds me of a better executed of the new Ana Sui collection. You know, that one with the peacock cap, etc.

#3 has an ample dose of ozonic “freshness” and though the dry down is less than perfect on my clothes especially with a very slight bitterness, I do find it to be a very uplifting scent overall. It’s like an ideal summery body spray disguised by a classy, heavy glass bottle.

My boyfriend said I smelled great when I doused myself with this, (and you really can, because the longevity is only body spray length, though the sillage is considerable). If you have body spray you already love (I don’t), then this may be a waste of your time. Otherwise, a light, juicy candy scent for smelling shampoo girly-clean. MMMhmm.

Update:
The dry down smells like someone spilled a strawberry kiwi wine cooler all over my clothes. It is not attractive and it lingers for more than a day. I had to return my bottle. This calls to mind the wise words of natural perfumer and founder of Providence Perfume Co., Charna Ethier who strongly believes in building perfumes “from the base, up.”

Without a quality foundation, even light fragrances with alluring top notes can morph into an unsavory synthetic mess.

Sorry, L’Imperatrice 3.  So close, yet so far.

M. Micallef Royal Vintage

13 May

When testing fragrances with my boyfriend I often refer to them as things that help me contextualize them for both of us, and when I tested M. Micallef’s Royal Vintage, I kept referring to it as, that Aventus one. They are definitely not the same scent, but similar enough that my familiarity with Aventus makes me automatically associate the two fragrances.

For those who are not familiar with either, they are both warm, spicy, woody fragrances rounded out by some acidic fruits with a kind of smoky pineapple quality. However, They are not so similar that one can replace the other, and I feel that each is deserving of individual consideration, even if they are close cousins. To make a designer/female analogy, if that would be helpful to anyone, they are about as similar as Kenzo Amour and Dior Hypnotic Poison are to one another.

If ever leather could be refreshing, this fragrance is a perfect example. Bergamot peel, spicy woodsy notes and smoky sweet fruitiness all revolve around a clean light leather.

This would be a great summer evening vacation scent. It is soothing and romantic, with a very casual facet.

This fragrance is incredibly well rounded and balanced. It smells tropical, masculine, and expensive. Projection and longevity are excellent so apply carefully. It actually has the lasting power of indelible ink, on me it stayed THROUGH a shower, so make sure you’re definitely in the mood to wear it! If you enjoy spicy, warm, complex masculine citrus frags and aren’t adverse to a nicely blended leather, give this one a shot.

If I woke up next to a man who smelled from Royal Vintage, I would be like, “AAAAAA!! WHAT DID YOU DO WITH MY BOYFRIEND!?”
But then I would take a deep breath of his Aventus, er, I mean Royal Vintage, sigh, and think to myself,

“Mhm. Everything’s gonna be alright.”

the fur coat

Kilian In the Garden of Good and Evil collection: In The City of Sin

2 Apr

In The City of Sin has a dry spicy opening. Pepper, cardamom, and incense float over resinous woods and warm muted fruit. The fruits are pushed down and restrained by the dry spices and dark woods. It is essentially, fruit in a cage. Thank you to the lovely Kilian reps at Saks, Kim and Will. They were wonderful to give me a sample of this.


In the City of Sin is the experience of visiting something strange, dark, and complex in order to discover sweetness buried beneath. The dry mix of spices and dark woods are an excellent compliment to the Summer fruits. In the City of Sin does not project too much, but once it dries down and its cage of spices and wood evaporates, it releases its soft sweet powdery fruits and lasts for hours close to the skin.

In the City of Sin is masculine and feminine. It is a little like some sort of spicy marinade at first, but give it a chance, and it undergoes a pleasant and unexpected transition or two, eventually drying down to a signature Kilian ambiguously fruity skin scent.

This fragrance’s lack of projection makes it appropriate for a wide range of situations, but it is certainly the most unusual composition of the three offerings from the In The Garden Of Good And Evil collection, so give it some time to develop before forming an opinion. Though I am not presently moved to purchase a FB of this, I also wouldn’t write it off. I think it’s about as noteworthy as Good Girl Gone Bad, though they smell nothing alike.

I recommend this especially for those who want to have the fruit elements of their fragrances perceptible, but restrained.

Chanel Bleu de Chanel

2 Mar

Bleu de Chanel has a very strong lemony citrus opening. It almost crosses into Pledge territory with the top notes, but there’s some spicy sweetness to temper it and keep it in check. The sourness of the lemon diminishes significantly after the first ten minutes, and the result is a pretty average masculine lemon and incense with woods composition. Projection and longevity are both pretty low. The drydown fades into sweet powdery woody incense. Ho hum..


Bleu de Chanel is a young professional who lives a comfortable life but is disconnected from it. He takes his dates to quaint fancy overcrowded restaurants which he loves reading about in his spare time. He makes good money, wears almost exclusively Banana Republic (because it’s nice and convenient), and his New Year’s resolution is always to find new hobbies such as: “figure out which type of music I enjoy.”

He is kind and friendly, but for some reason, he just isn’t the least bit sexy or seductive, even though he has a motorcycle.

He is physically unremarkable, and wholly unimpressive. Perhaps the World would be a better place if there were more people like him, or maybe it would just be more crowded. If I had to choose between offerings from Chanel, I would select Egoiste Platinum over Bleu de Chanel any day.

Just this side of “dime a dozen” (bonus points for niceness).

Tom Ford Noir

27 Feb

Tom Ford Noir is the scent of being an outsider. It is walking in steel-toe leather boots through an industrial park where large gates and fences prevent you from seeing which materials are being stored and manufactured.

It is heat rising off the tracks as you wait for the commuter train to pick you up in Newark.

It’s Summer Sun on a tar roof of a house across the street from an Exxon Mobile refinery sans the sulfur.

It’s masculine in a Werner Herzog kind of way, which is not to say he would wear it, (I don’t think he would), but he might make a movie about a place that smelled from it.

It is salty, oily, black rubber (maybe a dark purple that looks black) with chemical heat and the sparkle of minerals. It has a sweetness that is suspicious, like an otherworldly stench floating down-wind from a factory.

It has fantastic projection and lasts forever. In fact, it will probably still be here long after we are all gone. It’s almost a sentimental fragrance in that way.

It’s memorable and surreal, like Winter train tracks in the distance, that lead to a depressed town in Connecticut, where once there was a thriving port, but now there is only the Coast Guard,a few dive bars, and a nuclear sub base.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu

24 Feb

I have repeatedly attempted to review this fragrance, but have found that it is more challenging to describe than I expected. However, I have finally found enough time to spend with it to write about my experience. Sometimes really beautiful understated and complex fragrances take more time. Do NOT write this one off! Spend some time sampling it so you can see how wonderful it truly is. L Artisan is very understanding about the need to sample.

Timbuktu smells like an early Morning walk while camping, with smoky earthy incense notes which smell like a campfire that has gone out. There is leather, pepper, and wood, but despite the depth of the individual notes, Timbuktu is a dry, light and airy fragrance. Projection and longevity are pretty poor, but I enjoy that it wears close to the skin.

It is an intimate fragrance without being warm, seductive without being too spicy. It makes my skin smell as if I have just returned from somewhere very far away, where there is nothing familiar to cling to.

In its animalic earthiness, I get the feeling of clean dry mud, of drawings made from homemade charcoal on stone, tea made from bark and twigs, and the perfume of fine, parched earth. It is cool dry, exotic smoothness, and becomes subtly intoxicating.

Timbuktu reminds me slightly of Emir by M. Micallef, but Timbuktu is more subdued, muted and airy, the blue/grey and raw umber color of smoke and earth. I feel like I could douse myself with it, and it still wouldn’t project any more than it does with three sprays. As it opens on the skin, the fresh earthiness of vetiver becomes more apparent.

Timbuktu smells magical because of what it contains, but especially because of what it DOESN’T. Each of its elements fit together perfectly, with nothing to distract or over-complicate.

I get the distinct feeling that it is intended as an ingredient in a solution made for self-protection. It is a whispered reminder of one’s own inner strength.

Tasha Pilot-Slow

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