Tag Archives: plum

Parfum d`Empire Wazamba

12 Apr

If you desperately miss the forest, Wazamba is the perfect fragrance for you.

Wazamba opens with warm resinous dark green pine needles. I can see where the sap has hardened and turned opaque on the bark of the trunk, and where it still drips, fresh and potent.

As it warms up, the warm, dry and smoky authentic church incense and hints of fresh apple emerge to join along with the pine forming an absolutely gorgeous synergy. As it dries down, the almost peppery, woody incense takes the stage in all of its smoky sacred glory, along with occasional appearances of cypress. The final notes on me are a mild fruitiness and labdanum with the last traces of smoke..

Wazamba is welcoming, simmering and wearable. It projects decently but definitely is not a sillage monster. Will have to try again in summer.
I wouldn’t hesitate to wear Wazamba year round as it contains many of my favorite notes and is not too heavy. It has great longevity.

If you are the least bit reluctant to smell like a coniferous forest, you might consider this as an alternative means of scenting your home (as other reviewers have suggested), because it is so warm, natural, and inviting-smelling.

It’s also much less messy than moving all of your furniture into a cathedral and then covering the floor with pine needles.

airplanes

Kilian In the Garden of Good and Evil collection: In The City of Sin

2 Apr

In The City of Sin has a dry spicy opening. Pepper, cardamom, and incense float over resinous woods and warm muted fruit. The fruits are pushed down and restrained by the dry spices and dark woods. It is essentially, fruit in a cage. Thank you to the lovely Kilian reps at Saks, Kim and Will. They were wonderful to give me a sample of this.


In the City of Sin is the experience of visiting something strange, dark, and complex in order to discover sweetness buried beneath. The dry mix of spices and dark woods are an excellent compliment to the Summer fruits. In the City of Sin does not project too much, but once it dries down and its cage of spices and wood evaporates, it releases its soft sweet powdery fruits and lasts for hours close to the skin.

In the City of Sin is masculine and feminine. It is a little like some sort of spicy marinade at first, but give it a chance, and it undergoes a pleasant and unexpected transition or two, eventually drying down to a signature Kilian ambiguously fruity skin scent.

This fragrance’s lack of projection makes it appropriate for a wide range of situations, but it is certainly the most unusual composition of the three offerings from the In The Garden Of Good And Evil collection, so give it some time to develop before forming an opinion. Though I am not presently moved to purchase a FB of this, I also wouldn’t write it off. I think it’s about as noteworthy as Good Girl Gone Bad, though they smell nothing alike.

I recommend this especially for those who want to have the fruit elements of their fragrances perceptible, but restrained.

Kilian In the Garden of Good and Evil: Forbidden Games

25 Mar

Forbidden Games smells like freshly sliced fuji apples drizzled with honey along with a tiny lil’ puff of peach baby powder with a hint of canned cranberry sauce. Not homemade cranberry sauce…CANNED.

I was feeling down the other night so I took the wonderful sample of Forbidden Games given to me by the lovely and generous Kilian reps at Saks, and emptied half of it running around my bedroom spritzing FG in all directions.

After returning to my bed, I thought, “Ahh… I have discovered the best use for Forbidden Games: Room Spray.” Of course I don’t have the money to use anything remotely expensive as room spray, but in a vacuum, Forbidden Games would be my go-to in order to lift my spirits.

On the subject of “spirits”, wearing FG on my body is an entirely different story. I want this amazingly awesome room spray of a fragrance to lift me up and comfort me at the same time, but instead it falls flat. It does that sharp, “static shock up-your-nose” thing that some peachy fruity frags do, and I couldn’t detect any complexity. as I said before: Flat.

Similarly to how Flower of Immortality is a kind of super soft, fleeting and elusive “fragrance spirit”, Forbidden Games also escapes me with it’s nothing projection and disappointing longevity.

I want the lady from the movie Poltergeist or perhaps the priest from The Exorcist to come and do a reading of me, to see if there has been any PERFUME ACTIVITY GOING ON UP IN HERE. They are professional (well, actors…), but in-character, they alone would be able to detect Forbidden Games on my skin after two hours, or hanging in the air in my bedroom…
the morning after.

Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses

19 Mar

Liaisons Dangereuses is like jumping up and down on the king-sized bed when you’re not supposed to.

It would be perfect for the girl who has everything, because it smells like a symbolic summation of everything she has.

It’s the irresistible beauty of youth, the freedom of wealth, and the gift of originality. The lovely and knowledgeable Kilian reps at Saks were so wonderful to let me try a sample. Thank you so much Kim and Will!

Liaisons Dangereuses opens with freshly sliced peaches, followed by delicate baby powder surrounding the crisp green leaves of one of the most gorgeous roses I have ever smelled in a fragrance! It literally made me see fireworks in my head.

As it warms up on my skin, all of the notes fuse into an intoxicating translucent Summer hue, with the black currants really coming into focus in the dry down.

It smells like the appearance of golden orange orchid petals, or the scented powder my mom gave me before I had ever worn a perfume, making me feel indescribably pretty and sophisticated.

It’s like a young girl proudly tromping and wobbling through the house wearing her older sister’s high heels.

I don’t care what the name is, or how much it costs.. I even forgot what I was supposed to be doing today.

Liaisons Dangereuses takes you firmly yet softly and wipes your slate clean. Just like that.

It doesn’t last very long, but nothing of this caliber ever seems to. Would you even want it to? How would anything ever get done? All I’m really saying is,

WOOOOO!…that’s good stuff.

Ineke Evening Edged in Gold

4 Mar

Evening Edged in Gold is a fragrance power animal, though I employ the term “power animal” here, in the most abstract sense of the concept: Mysterious and seemingly generated with the intention to give certain individuals tremendous strengths.

EEIG opens with mildly sweet, slightly under-ripe plums against dark wood and leather. If you don’t like leather in your fragrances, steer clear. This combination of notes results in new, barely cured, slightly salty, large green olives. The wood present in the opening reminds me of old wooden rafters in an art studio.

Evening Edged in Gold smells a little like strangely intoxicating flowers against a backdrop of fresh white paint in a large open studio with one wall of exposed brick and skylights. There are tubes of paint on rolling shelves and large canvases on wooden racks lining the walls. There is no one here.

Evening Edged in Gold is a quiet fragrance, though it has a firm presence. Projection and longevity are pretty good. It is softly dark, like an art studio closed for the night. All of its potential is presently at rest. I find it extremely unique, but also perfectly wearable. Easily unisex.

I would wear this for an occasion where I wanted to console myself while asserting my independence. Writing in a coffee shop or taking a solo trip to explore a new neighborhood. It is introspective without being distracting.

It is a wonderful treatment of soft, dry, earthy leather. It is deliberate but airy. The initial burst of sweetness in the opening which appears periodically throughout the development and in the dry down, reminds me of the darkness and sweetness of finished works of art, at rest in storage. They are quietly vibrating with their individual energies, like those things in nature that are beautiful but somehow manage to exist without demanding any recognition. In the dry down, a synergy of the notes takes place.

The dry down reminds me slightly of a more subtle, more tastefully executed, fluid, harmonious, and fresh/natural relative of Tom Ford’s Black Orchid. The dry down is really complementary to the natural scent of skin. Out of all of the fragrances Ineke was kind enough to let me experience, this is by far my favorite.

A rare and inspired, self-sufficient dark beauty.

M. Micallef Ananda

21 Feb

Ananda begins with the soft perfumed fruit scent of a babysitter’s hair.


It is an inoffensive though synthetic impression of pear and it is soft, very delicate, and feminine. It is sugary sweet, powdery and tart with citrus and currant. There is nothing remotely visceral about it as with other pears that have a pulpy, over-ripe pungency to them. This is a young innocent woman wearing pear in a gently lit children’s room.

The rose makes this fragrance slightly green, but as the fragrance wears on, the vanilla musk/mimosa in the base takes a gentle powdery control over the tart green notes, and only the synthetic silhouette of the pear lingers. Despite the sweetness, the soft delicacy of the dry down ensures that this fragrance never becomes cloying, if applied with reasonable discrimination.

Though it eventually turns into quite an easy and soothing skin scent, there is nothing overtly memorable in the conclusion to Ananda. The babysitter is warm, pleasant, and comforting, but in a few years you will forget her name, her face, and even the scent of her hair.

Atelier Cologne Vetiver Fatal

21 Feb

Vetiver Fatal by Atelier Cologne smells like the entire plum tree, in the way L’Artisan’s Premier Figuier smells like the entire fig tree: limbs, leaves, fruit and roots.

It opens with a cedary citrusy almost barbershop tonic, which quickly transforms into the sweet earthy freshness of dark purple fruits and leaves. There is nothing overly pungent about this plum tree, and as others have noted, it is surprisingly smooth.

Once the nectar-like quality of the plum begins to calm down, it is replaced by a creamier, earthier incarnation of itself, with the brown/pink sweetness of Haitian vetiver, and a combination of greenly spicy woods.

This perfectly balanced fragrance goes through fluid yet distinct phases, each one thoroughly enjoyable. Definitely unisex.

Sillage is average, and longevity is somewhat low, but it comes in a very large and tasteful bottle, so you can apply it liberally.

In the dry down it is a sweet earthy scent, like sun warmed fruit and blossoms among leaves.

Vetiver Fatal is the feeling of sweet green shade. It is the sensation of hearing that your flight to Key West is now boarding. It is catharsis and excitement. It is ready to GO! (and never look back).

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