Tag Archives: romantic floral

By Kilian Water Calligraphy

14 May

Water Calligraphy is a masterfully blended aquatic floral.

Magnolia and grapefruit pop out right in the opening, giving the composition a glorious sparkling warmth. The cardamom gives it a slightly spicy edge, and the water lily and vetiver give it a lush translucency.
It has a large, rich peachy sillage, good longevity, and the whole thing positively glows, like an expensive married woman on a relaxed afternoon brunch with her grownup daughter. Or maybe it is the expensive grownup daughter who is wearing Water Calligraphy. It is a fragrance they could easily share.

This fragrance is extremely floral and Sunny sweet, so if you shy away from sweet white floral frags, this may not be for you.

The soapy, powdery and aquatic notes really emerge full-force in the dry down, which is admittedly not so exciting as far as dry downs go, but it remains easy to wear, right through to the end.  I see this fragrance as a sparkly fuchsia and tangerine colored aura.  If Pegasuses were real,  luminous trails of Water Calligraphy would probably flow from their butts as they gracefully soared through the clouds.

I tend to dislike aquatic notes in fragrances, but Kilian pulls them off well in this summery feminine composition. I wouldn’t buy it myself but I will probably use my whole sample, which is more that I can say for a lot of perfumes.

pink girls

Jo Malone Osmanthus Blossom

4 May

Osmanthus Blossom is a boldly green citrus with water/flower notes. I would rename it Petitgrain Blossom. The reps at my Jo Malone boutique were very generous to give me a big fat sample when I stopped in to say hello.

Osmanthus Blossom opens with sweet and tart, crisp juicy lychee-ish, fruity “water” notes, accompanied by bright, ambiguously green citrus medley (petitgrain with sugar-dipped lime wedges and bergamot oil…maybe even a tea note?)..

The dry down loses some of the sparkle and tang of the opening and contains mostly mild, sunny-sweet powder and green notes which again lean more toward the lotus, petitgrain-citrus direction, than any other. There is also a hint of light, ambiguous woods with the water and powder (a high-quality aquatic musk) toward the very end.

I feel that this is an easy composition, green, sweet, springy, and not representative of anything realistic.

It is an impressionistic fragrance, but my impression of the actual osmanthus bush/tree (one of my all time favorites) is not similar to this fragrance. I don’t usually get hung up on names and review for what I smell, not for what I hope, but I couldn’t help but want a true osmanthus scent from JM, since her Red Roses and Orange Blossom hit the nail on the head with such precision.

I think OB is about as compelling as the new Jasmin & Bergamote by L’Occitane. Longevity and projection are average. I won’t be owning this, but I’m not in the market for a green citrus floral.

OB is a safe bet for someone who wants to smell fresh, feminine, and ready for spring with open arms, but isn’t really sure what she wants in a fragrance, and abhors the idea of offending anyone around her. Ain’t nothin’ wrong with that.

Personally, I would be eager to see Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume Co. attempt an osmanthus soliflore in the same vein as her Hindu Honeysuckle (also a petitgrain-rich composition). I feel that the osmanthus blossom must be nearly impossible to replicate, and if anything can approximate it, the palette of natural perfumery may have the upper hand.

All the pics From the Old Computer 1329

L Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons

27 Feb

La Chasse aux Papillons is a virgin bride in a bottle.

It’s Summer (of course) and I can almost see the yellow pollen floating in the air. Beyond the linden and orange blossoms, there is some other element in this composition that makes the whole thing seem a little faded-out, like one of those small, antique photographs. It’s like a half-imagined memory.

It’s definitely not stale but it’s also not exceptionally fresh in the way Jo Malone’s Orange Blossom is fresh. Maybe it’s too romantic to be fresh? Still not exactly sure what the deal is.

This fragrance is not too light, but it is definitely locket-sized. If something can smell romantic and innocent at the same time, this is definitely it.

The SA at the L’Artisan counter at Henri Bendel told me that La Chasse aux Papillons is a very popular fragrance among brides-to be. I can see why.

It’s a fragrance for real life Disney Princesses, but without all of the marshmallows, spun sugar, and CGI florals that one might normally associate with the word Disney. If you want to convey a celebratory life-loving personality, but still come off as lady-like and without the CGI fireworks overhead, this is your juice.

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