Tag Archives: rose

Providence Perfume Co. Divine Noir

12 May

Divine Noir is sweet, woody, earthy, balsamic, warm, tangy, and aromatic. It smells like a complex artisan root beer with a spritz of bergamot and a shot of patchouli-infused wheat grass mixed into it. It is such a beautiful offering of naturally sweet and aromatic earthiness, I feel like eating it would make me stronger and more beautiful.

It is spicy, smooth, rich and deep, but its vibrant botanical quality lends the ingredients a translucency, which prevents it from ever becoming too much. In the dead of summer I could see it being a little too heavy, but on the right person, Divine Noir is so balanced and unique that it could easily be dressed up or down. The juice is dark (obviously) so be careful when applying because if you spray directly to a small area, it can temporarily stain skin the color of sunless tanner, until your next shower. Don’t let this deter you. Just spray over a larger area so the color isn’t concentrated like a splotch, and always apply before you dress, and you’ll be fine.

Divine Noir is an invisible door you can open into a private exotic environment. It’s like chocolate and wine-colored velvet curtains draped behind antique paned-glass windows. It’s a fragrance for feeling centered and confident while at the same time welcoming and alluring.  That said, it’s definitely not a perfume  for everyone, and probably not for most, which could be a good or bad thing depending on what you are looking for.

The bergamot and patchouli are prevalent in the opening, as well as the sarsaparilla and well, countless other things! Ahhh! It’s blowing my mind!

It honestly took me a while to find my footing in Divine Noir (as it is VERY strong and bold with good sillage and excellent longevity), but once I did, I could not stop sniffing the part of my arm I had sprayed. The most gorgeous vanilla emerges in the dry down; what a stunning finish to an incredible journey.

the difference

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

10 Apr

Have you ever inflated a pair of plastic water wings, an inner-tube, or a kiddie pool using just the air from your lungs. This is the scent of the opening to Vetiver Dance.

Vetiver Dance opens with sharp green and plastic notes, along with black pepper and big fat vetiver. There is something very synthetic and almost toxic mingling with the earth, spice, and warm greens in the opening.

The plastic-smelling note is very familiar but I can’t quite put my finger on it. It reminds me of the air trapped inside of a bath toy that is too old and starting to deteriorate.

Once Vetiver Dance starts to calm down, lilly of the valley emerges and weaves through the green, plastic, and earth. At this point it has become considerably less peppery and sharp.

The dry down is the most redeeming part of Vetiver Dance. It reminds me a little of walking down a path through the woods after the rain. There are wet earth notes, cedar, and warm green notes as well as a bit of sunlight peeking through the clouds. The plastic is no longer present.The dry down is very pleasant. Projection is pretty good, longevity is excellent. It feels like a very Summery fragrance to me.

Is it worth all of that sharp artificial (albeit interesting) tumult for the beautiful warm, earthy green dry down? I’ll leave that up to you, but personally, I would go with Grey Flannel or Hermes’s Eau de Gentiane Blanche if I wanted a unisex-type, flowery, verdant bomb of a fragrance. I could do without that half-inflated kiddie pool.

Note: “interesting” and “beautiful” are not opposed to one another in my mind, but sometimes they can both be present without being equivalent. In the case of Vetiver Dance, it’s interesting qualities do not highlight its beauty for me.

Providence Perfume Co. Hindu Honeysuckle

7 Apr

At last! My search has officially ended.

I have finally found the sweet, airy and powerful true-to-life honeysuckle-centered fragrance of my dreams. Hindu Honeysuckle is magical. It is the perfection of summer, distilled.

One spray to each arm, and the most gorgeous realistic cloud of honeysuckle aroma enveloped me. It was euphoria.
Moments later, my boyfriend (who is extremely discerning about fragrance) turned his head and from ACROSS THE ROOM exclaimed, “that smells incredible.” I looked up at his face and there were tears in his eyes. I kid you not.

 

Hindu Honeysuckle is a clear and transportive honeysuckle fragrance, conjuring memories of peaceful childhood summers in nature. It has amazing projection and longevity just like the real honeysuckle vine. This is an especially grand accomplishment considering that all-natural fragrances tend to be lacking in the sillage/life-span department.

Hindu Honeysuckle also has depth and complexity, with a prominent ambrette note from the opening, along with lighter coriander and bergamot, then vetiver to give it a green aromatic earthiness. These elements set off the features of the honeysuckle flowers even more, so that they are sparkling and full of light. Jasmine and bergamot linger in the dry down. It is extremely well blended, yet it retains great note separation.

The earthy/herbal elements also enforce that this is a unisex fragrance. It is very impressive that it is an all-natural fragrance because it is so vibrant and layered. However, by any standards (natural or synthetic, niche, indie, or whatever), it is a transcendent and awe-inspiring feat of alchemy.

I would say that Hindu Honeysuckle is worth every penny, but to me it is priceless. It seems wrong to put a figure on something of such arresting, unquantifiable aesthetic value. I personally feel that it is too beautiful to be an every day fragrance (though it’s easy to wear and definitely could be one if you chose), and instead something to wear when you want to create beautiful memories and lasting positive associations. It would be ideal for a special occasion or a sacred personal ceremony. This joyous peaceful fragrance would be a great gift to the person for whom you want to show infinite gratitude; that’s just what I think of when I smell it!

If you love honeysuckle or have never smelled it before and want to know exactly what it smells like, this is the fragrance for you. Trust me, it does NOT get better than this.

Il Profumi di Firenze Costa Mediterranea

6 Apr

Holy Neroli!!! Costa Mediterranea is one of those fragrances you can smell THROUGH the bottle, even if you haven’t spilled any of it on the outside.

You must have a strong stomach for this fragrance! It has otherworldly projection and longevity. It’s like the Pink Sugar of masculine citrus frags. It goes on, and on and on… so you better love it if you decide to wear it!

Costa Mediterranea starts off with potent, sinus-tingling bergamot, lemon, and herbal elements. They radiate in a way that is sharp, dry and not true to life. It employs high quality materials which definitely don’t scream lemon floor cleaner, but they are also entirely lacking the freshness of say, L’Occitane’s Verbena. Though aquatic notes are not listed, it has a very strong aquatic feel to it.

Costa Mediterranea reminds me of something that would fall into the “men’s sport” category of fragrances. Though I am not sure what to compare this to in that genre, I could envision its equivalent composition appearing in an offering from Tommy Hilfiger or Adidas, though this unquestionably has 10 times the potency. Spray it in only ONCE in the air and then walk through it, if you dare.

I made the mistake of wearing this in an office, and I could tell people were trying very hard not to look at me. I’ll never forget it. This would be an okay selection for clubbing (if you wanted everyone in the place to know you had arrived), but a terrible thing to smell while hungover the following morning. If you are sweating while wearing it, I think it projects something like 15 ft. I think this would also be appropriate for a cool, windy day spent mostly outdoors. Perhaps at the ocean, but not inside or in extreme heat. Costa Mediterranea is not a friend of the blazing Sun.

Once the razor sharp top notes have long dissipated, and it enters the dry down stage, I can detect faint florals (primarily rose), and the earthy vetiver finally emerges to join with the bergamot and lemon.

However, this is largely a citrus herbal fragrance. Don’t let the honeysuckle listed in the notes mislead you. This is a sporty citrus MONSTER. You’ve been warned. Okay gotta go wash it off now because it’s starting to give me indigestion…Guess I just don’t have the stomach.

Serge Lutens La fille de Berlin

2 Apr

People have compared La fille de Berlin to Red Roses by Jo Malone, and I do see some similarities in the presentation of rose, however there is much more sweetness and subtlety in the nuances of La fille de Berlin. I cant help but think it is in an entirely different arena, though if you enjoy one, you may very well appreciate the other.

Jo Malone’s Red Roses is straight, fresh, beautifully unadorned, robust and voluptuous deep red roses along with their crisp, wet, green stems and leaves. Just breathtaking. Now take those roses, tenderly envelop them in a gauzy black shroud, and you have La fille de Berlin.

Like JM’s Red Roses, La fille de Berlin demonstrates a certain clarity of vision within the rose genre and not just because it’s a soliflore, but because it gives me a sense of the heft and the texture of the flower; I can envision the appearance of the particular rose I am smelling. For this reason it is a unique and admirable fragrance which projects very well and sticks around on my skin for quite a while. The warmth of the pepper and sweetness in the roses make it an ideal fragrance for the bone-chilling, damp Spring morning when one wishes it would just be nice out already!

The amount of pepper in this is perfectly calculated. Just enough to set off the features of the rose: bright red petals against an off-black background. Much gratitude to Serge Lutens for my sample.

As it dries down, it does take on a sweet earthy/powdery quality and a good deal of the clarity is lost; I feel like the rose is naturally decomposing into some sort of powdery rose compost, though I would not go so far as to call it musty. The emergence of the powder is surprising and I could do without it (its absence in Red Roses is one of the many reasons it’s so gorgeous), but I will tolerate the powder here in exchange for the addition of pepper, which the Jo Malone rose is lacking. A soliflore depicted as an entire scene, suitable for both male and female rose lovers. Very well done.

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella: Melograno

28 Mar

I have been wearing Melograno for years but never attempted to describe it. It was gifted to me by a close friend and was one of the first fragrances I ever owned, so I was wearing it well before I understood doodly squat about thinking of fragrance in terms of classifications like chypres, note pyramids, and the idea of notes in the first place.

Instead I thought of all fragrances in terms of the colors they evoked in my head. Since then, I have learned a little more, so I’ll give it a shot. Melograno is no longer just the powdery opalescent white layered over burgundy fragrance it once appeared to be. Now when I smell it, I see rainbows. That may sound sentimental, but I really do.

Melograno opens with a sharp, spicy-green, soapy powder with a sweetish/bitter tinge. There is no “true to life” anything in Melograno. It doesn’t even smell like true to life baby powder, though the powder aspect is very prominent. The green is a dry, spicy green, not a lush verdant one; it’s very classic-smelling. The citrus is barely there in the top notes if at all. The rose/orris root is cool and soapy. The patchouli and vetiver are earthy and sweet, but run no risk of obscuring the other elements.

A trace of warmth comes through from the amber, ylang and tobacco, but this fragrance is so well blended and has so much dynamism that it really just IS. Though its notes are not so easy to separate, and are not “true to life”, they aren’t trying to be. Melograno smells like itself, and nothing else. It smells calm, wise and stern.

There is an entire world living inside Melograno, and in that respect I think it actually is very much like a pomegranate, though I am generally not too concerned with names and their accuracy. It fuses seamlessly with my own skin’s scent, but there is also so much complexity that I feel like I can peer into it and never get bored.

Melograno is like a woman who has seen it all. I could sit around admiring her all day.

All the pics From the Old Computer 1332

LURK PRJ V1

25 Mar

PRJ V1 is the spirit of turning ten.

All natural, sweet, non-indolic jasmine with fresh cold roses, green stems, and a hint of petitgrain. PRJ V1 is simplistic, sweet, vibrant and green: three nice E.O.s working together in near perfect harmony.

It’s an uncluttered floral mixture that wears close to the skin but lasts for some time. Thanks to LURK for the beautiful sample.

This is a very simple, balanced, well-blended composition, though it does not transcend the sum of its parts. As it dries down, it starts to smell like expensive jasmine-rose soap. It is both relaxing and uplifting, if you enjoy the sweeter lighter side of natural jasmine, with a lush, aromatic green rose. The petitgrain and rose with the soft clear jasmine would make this perfect for Spring or Summer.

This fragrance is a 10 year old girl’s birthday. Not the party itself, but the spirit of turning double-digits for the first time. It is sweet, (but nothing at all like candy-sweet… she’s TEN now, got it!? A YOUNG LADY.) It’s energetic and joyful, but also very natural, green, new and uncomplicated.

It smells like an ample bouquet of roses with bright green stems, combined with fresh jasmine cuttings in a tall heavy crystal vase.

All that said, I might still attempt to make this myself, since I already  own  all three of those oils and I might want to make something in the same family if not very similar. However, if you’re not in the mood for experimentation, LURK  has already done it for you beautifully, like pre-sliced apples in the produce section of Wholefoods market.

I know there is a whole lot more to perfumery than chopping and wrapping (or there should be), but anything can be an art form if performed with a certain level of skill and intention.

Ready-made, powder-free flowers for a proud young beauty.

Tasha Pilot-Slow

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