Tag Archives: unisex

Cedre Parfums 06130

22 May

Cedre is a wood and flower ghost fragrance.  It reminds me of a Shirley Jackson novel. It is amazing to me how many forms a Cedre fragrance can have. This one surprised me with its ethereal character.

A very light, pretty, powdery cedar with a faint barbershop quality from the violet. Despite its barbershop leanings, Cedre could be worn with ease by a man or a woman, because it is soft and slightly sweet.

It is very light, and well-blended so that the voilet, musk and cedar all weigh in about equally. Its projection is low and it does not last very long, but it would be appropriate for any occasion as a result. Maybe not for a loud party. Then again, who knows?

Cedre is the whispering voice of a beautiful female ghost who wanders the halls of an old bed & breakfast outside of town. She retreats to the lace of the curtains on the windows, but comes out to breathe her delicate sweet perfume right before you round the corner to discover no one is there.

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

10 Apr

Have you ever inflated a pair of plastic water wings, an inner-tube, or a kiddie pool using just the air from your lungs. This is the scent of the opening to Vetiver Dance.

Vetiver Dance opens with sharp green and plastic notes, along with black pepper and big fat vetiver. There is something very synthetic and almost toxic mingling with the earth, spice, and warm greens in the opening.

The plastic-smelling note is very familiar but I can’t quite put my finger on it. It reminds me of the air trapped inside of a bath toy that is too old and starting to deteriorate.

Once Vetiver Dance starts to calm down, lilly of the valley emerges and weaves through the green, plastic, and earth. At this point it has become considerably less peppery and sharp.

The dry down is the most redeeming part of Vetiver Dance. It reminds me a little of walking down a path through the woods after the rain. There are wet earth notes, cedar, and warm green notes as well as a bit of sunlight peeking through the clouds. The plastic is no longer present.The dry down is very pleasant. Projection is pretty good, longevity is excellent. It feels like a very Summery fragrance to me.

Is it worth all of that sharp artificial (albeit interesting) tumult for the beautiful warm, earthy green dry down? I’ll leave that up to you, but personally, I would go with Grey Flannel or Hermes’s Eau de Gentiane Blanche if I wanted a unisex-type, flowery, verdant bomb of a fragrance. I could do without that half-inflated kiddie pool.

Note: “interesting” and “beautiful” are not opposed to one another in my mind, but sometimes they can both be present without being equivalent. In the case of Vetiver Dance, it’s interesting qualities do not highlight its beauty for me.

Jo Malone Grapefruit

27 Mar

Grapefruit is the perfect “morning” scent. It is dressed to the nines, briefcase in hand, checking the time and out the door to work. Look out, world… It’s Grapefruit!!!

Um…okay.

This is one of the most masculine-leaning grapefruits I have experienced so far. That said, it is still totally unisex to me. The dry spice and transparent earthiness make it feel like a light, refreshing face tonic.

I could see Grapefruit layering beautifully or working as a light everyday office scent (provided that you enjoy grapefruit of course). It does not project very far, so that’s also good for the office depending on where you work, and it’s longevity is great for a JM.

Grapefruit stands out to me because unlike other masculine/unisex citrus oriented scents on the market today, JM shows us a natural-smelling rendition of notes and their relationships. It’s not overly-simplistic but it also doesn’t smell abstract or synthetic.

My overall impression is  signature Jo Malone. I can immediately detect the way in which Grapefruit is a cousin to Lime Basil & Mandarin, as well as Amber & Lavender. This ability to create distinct scents while maintaining a signature feeling throughout is to me, a sign of a strong identity and consistent quality.

The person who wears this by itself is not interested in a scent that evolves and transforms dramatically over time. This is just a pretty compliment to the skin. True to life citrus, a hint of pepper and some aromatic herbs.

If you feel “out of it” this will wake you right up, and lift your spirits. Good morning! Now get out there and make us all proud.

Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses

19 Mar

Liaisons Dangereuses is like jumping up and down on the king-sized bed when you’re not supposed to.

It would be perfect for the girl who has everything, because it smells like a symbolic summation of everything she has.

It’s the irresistible beauty of youth, the freedom of wealth, and the gift of originality. The lovely and knowledgeable Kilian reps at Saks were so wonderful to let me try a sample. Thank you so much Kim and Will!

Liaisons Dangereuses opens with freshly sliced peaches, followed by delicate baby powder surrounding the crisp green leaves of one of the most gorgeous roses I have ever smelled in a fragrance! It literally made me see fireworks in my head.

As it warms up on my skin, all of the notes fuse into an intoxicating translucent Summer hue, with the black currants really coming into focus in the dry down.

It smells like the appearance of golden orange orchid petals, or the scented powder my mom gave me before I had ever worn a perfume, making me feel indescribably pretty and sophisticated.

It’s like a young girl proudly tromping and wobbling through the house wearing her older sister’s high heels.

I don’t care what the name is, or how much it costs.. I even forgot what I was supposed to be doing today.

Liaisons Dangereuses takes you firmly yet softly and wipes your slate clean. Just like that.

It doesn’t last very long, but nothing of this caliber ever seems to. Would you even want it to? How would anything ever get done? All I’m really saying is,

WOOOOO!…that’s good stuff.

Nomaterra Washington D.C.

14 Mar

The trees are bare in early Spring, except for the tiniest of buds on the branches, but there is occasionally a hint of something aromatic and earthy floating from the direction of the park.

Washington D.C. is briskly walking to lunch at a bustling urban roundabout, right at the base of a large park in the city center. It is watching the horses and carriages with their owners, who in turn watch the tourists in hopes of selling a ride. It is cold outside and there is commotion everywhere, but the horses are motionless, only occasionally rippling an isolated group of muscles, or shaking their heads from side to side.

Weaving in and out of the crowd of professionally dressed people who are also trying to get to lunch, you pick up random hints of their perfumes and colognes: This one is a little flowery, that one is a serious aquatic (and very close!), while another is SPICY, …leathery, and so on…

It is a unique olfactory trip, weaving through the crowd in the bright grey light of early afternoon in Spring. It’s an oddly juxtaposed noisy scene, and the snippets of things you find yourself staring at take you by surprise.
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I was fortunate to receive a sample of Washington D.C. from Nomaterra, because it is not quite like anything I have experienced before.

Washington D.C. opens with a fragrant, almost flowery cherry note which is half way between a realistic dark red cherry, and a chewy candied maraschino cherry. Then, almost immediately, something very strange happens.

There is a strong aromatic earthiness to the opening of Washington D.C… It smells a little like fresh horse sh*t, but less sweet. Maybe it’s the combination of bay leaf and black pepper? There is something heavy and humid and dank in this fragrance. The sweetness of the cherry opening is still hanging around in the background, though it is more faint as it develops on my skin.

As it warms up, the nutmeg really starts to HOLLER at me, along with a suddenly potent and cheap-smelling aquatic musk that grows and grows in force until it is practically eye-watering.

The dry down continues with the familiar “freshness” (not really so fresh) of aquatic musk. The nutmeg lingers faintly in the background along with the black pepper, and the cherries and flowers have long since disappeared.

Washington D.C. projects considerably, especially the black pepper and aquatic musk, which from a distance reminds me of petroleum jelly. The dry down comes quickly, though the longevity of this aquatic musk stage is insane. At the very end of its life, I can detect the faintest trace of a sweet artificial vanilla.

There is something disconcertingly 2-D about Washington D.C. It has the compositional flatness of a cheap designer fragrance, but the odd note variety and development, of something more experimental in nature, something that leaves me struggling to get through it.

The composition is haphazard and unbalanced to my nose, but gets points for originality.

Ineke Evening Edged in Gold

4 Mar

Evening Edged in Gold is a fragrance power animal, though I employ the term “power animal” here, in the most abstract sense of the concept: Mysterious and seemingly generated with the intention to give certain individuals tremendous strengths.

EEIG opens with mildly sweet, slightly under-ripe plums against dark wood and leather. If you don’t like leather in your fragrances, steer clear. This combination of notes results in new, barely cured, slightly salty, large green olives. The wood present in the opening reminds me of old wooden rafters in an art studio.

Evening Edged in Gold smells a little like strangely intoxicating flowers against a backdrop of fresh white paint in a large open studio with one wall of exposed brick and skylights. There are tubes of paint on rolling shelves and large canvases on wooden racks lining the walls. There is no one here.

Evening Edged in Gold is a quiet fragrance, though it has a firm presence. Projection and longevity are pretty good. It is softly dark, like an art studio closed for the night. All of its potential is presently at rest. I find it extremely unique, but also perfectly wearable. Easily unisex.

I would wear this for an occasion where I wanted to console myself while asserting my independence. Writing in a coffee shop or taking a solo trip to explore a new neighborhood. It is introspective without being distracting.

It is a wonderful treatment of soft, dry, earthy leather. It is deliberate but airy. The initial burst of sweetness in the opening which appears periodically throughout the development and in the dry down, reminds me of the darkness and sweetness of finished works of art, at rest in storage. They are quietly vibrating with their individual energies, like those things in nature that are beautiful but somehow manage to exist without demanding any recognition. In the dry down, a synergy of the notes takes place.

The dry down reminds me slightly of a more subtle, more tastefully executed, fluid, harmonious, and fresh/natural relative of Tom Ford’s Black Orchid. The dry down is really complementary to the natural scent of skin. Out of all of the fragrances Ineke was kind enough to let me experience, this is by far my favorite.

A rare and inspired, self-sufficient dark beauty.

Tasha Pilot-Slow

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