Tag Archives: vetiver

Cedre Parfums 06130

22 May

Cedre is a wood and flower ghost fragrance.  It reminds me of a Shirley Jackson novel. It is amazing to me how many forms a Cedre fragrance can have. This one surprised me with its ethereal character.

A very light, pretty, powdery cedar with a faint barbershop quality from the violet. Despite its barbershop leanings, Cedre could be worn with ease by a man or a woman, because it is soft and slightly sweet.

It is very light, and well-blended so that the voilet, musk and cedar all weigh in about equally. Its projection is low and it does not last very long, but it would be appropriate for any occasion as a result. Maybe not for a loud party. Then again, who knows?

Cedre is the whispering voice of a beautiful female ghost who wanders the halls of an old bed & breakfast outside of town. She retreats to the lace of the curtains on the windows, but comes out to breathe her delicate sweet perfume right before you round the corner to discover no one is there.

By Kilian Water Calligraphy

14 May

Water Calligraphy is a masterfully blended aquatic floral.

Magnolia and grapefruit pop out right in the opening, giving the composition a glorious sparkling warmth. The cardamom gives it a slightly spicy edge, and the water lily and vetiver give it a lush translucency.
It has a large, rich peachy sillage, good longevity, and the whole thing positively glows, like an expensive married woman on a relaxed afternoon brunch with her grownup daughter. Or maybe it is the expensive grownup daughter who is wearing Water Calligraphy. It is a fragrance they could easily share.

This fragrance is extremely floral and Sunny sweet, so if you shy away from sweet white floral frags, this may not be for you.

The soapy, powdery and aquatic notes really emerge full-force in the dry down, which is admittedly not so exciting as far as dry downs go, but it remains easy to wear, right through to the end.  I see this fragrance as a sparkly fuchsia and tangerine colored aura.  If Pegasuses were real,  luminous trails of Water Calligraphy would probably flow from their butts as they gracefully soared through the clouds.

I tend to dislike aquatic notes in fragrances, but Kilian pulls them off well in this summery feminine composition. I wouldn’t buy it myself but I will probably use my whole sample, which is more that I can say for a lot of perfumes.

pink girls

Comme des Garcons Green

1 May

The opening of Green smells more like a mojito than any fragrance I have ever sampled. Why? Probably because it isn’t trying to. Take THAT, Demeter!!


Green has a hint of saltiness which makes it almost wander into margarita territory, but ultimately it registers as a light, true mojito scent. Projection and longevity are low, but perhaps on someone else they would be better.

The drydown is sweet mint, accompanied by a light, earthy mineral vetiver. It reminds me of the soil clinging to the roots of the mint plant right after you pull it from the ground.

The final notes smell synthetic sweet and abstract green.

I would much rather drink a mojito, but at least Green smells good, and the mint is not obscured. Light, casual, summery mint.

 

All the pics From the Old Computer 2634

Comme des Garcons Hinoki

20 Apr

Okay. So I decided not to be a B*TCH.. (just kidding), and covered my forearms with two generous sprays of Hinoki.

It is deeply resinous, coniferous woods: cedar and pine, with camphor upfront (but not too much), and frankincense. The addition of camphor makes the darkness sparkle. Woooo… That’s seriously good stuff. On my skin it is never hamster cage, never disinfectant. As it dries down on my skin, a beautiful treatment of slightly earthy green vetiver emerges and joins with the other elements.

The frankincense never steals the show, the moderate projection never crushes my windpipe between two logs, and the woods are just gorgeous. This is such an expertly balanced, meditative fragrance. I find it extremely relaxing, dry, smoky and silent. It has great, steady longevity as well. Though it is not cloying, it is persistent, so in warmer temperatures I would apply with discrimination.

It reminds me of a deep silence with just the darkness of the woods surrounding me, fresh air laced with incense, and the sound of running water.

Hinoki reminds me of a more silky, dry, and refined version of Espirit du Tigre by Heeley, not because they have the same notes, but because they both convey the sensation of a camphor-laced, deep, resinous forest. I would go for Hinoki over the Heeley whenever I really wanted to relax. Heeley uses peppermint, black pepper, and cinnamon creating a kind of spiciness that interrupts the silence. Not a bad thing, but definitely more stimulating and boisterous than Hinoki.

Like a deep, sparkling forest laced with smooth smoky dry incense, Hinoki works any time of day, any time of year, in any situation where you feel there is not quite enough peace and quiet, or when there is already peace and quiet, and you want to pair something with your surrounding sanctuary.

It makes me extremely nervous to say this but…it just might be perfect. I don’t think I would change a single thing.

Tauer Perfumes Vetiver Dance

10 Apr

Have you ever inflated a pair of plastic water wings, an inner-tube, or a kiddie pool using just the air from your lungs. This is the scent of the opening to Vetiver Dance.

Vetiver Dance opens with sharp green and plastic notes, along with black pepper and big fat vetiver. There is something very synthetic and almost toxic mingling with the earth, spice, and warm greens in the opening.

The plastic-smelling note is very familiar but I can’t quite put my finger on it. It reminds me of the air trapped inside of a bath toy that is too old and starting to deteriorate.

Once Vetiver Dance starts to calm down, lilly of the valley emerges and weaves through the green, plastic, and earth. At this point it has become considerably less peppery and sharp.

The dry down is the most redeeming part of Vetiver Dance. It reminds me a little of walking down a path through the woods after the rain. There are wet earth notes, cedar, and warm green notes as well as a bit of sunlight peeking through the clouds. The plastic is no longer present.The dry down is very pleasant. Projection is pretty good, longevity is excellent. It feels like a very Summery fragrance to me.

Is it worth all of that sharp artificial (albeit interesting) tumult for the beautiful warm, earthy green dry down? I’ll leave that up to you, but personally, I would go with Grey Flannel or Hermes’s Eau de Gentiane Blanche if I wanted a unisex-type, flowery, verdant bomb of a fragrance. I could do without that half-inflated kiddie pool.

Note: “interesting” and “beautiful” are not opposed to one another in my mind, but sometimes they can both be present without being equivalent. In the case of Vetiver Dance, it’s interesting qualities do not highlight its beauty for me.

Providence Perfume Co. Hindu Honeysuckle

7 Apr

At last! My search has officially ended.

I have finally found the sweet, airy and powerful true-to-life honeysuckle-centered fragrance of my dreams. Hindu Honeysuckle is magical. It is the perfection of summer, distilled.

One spray to each arm, and the most gorgeous realistic cloud of honeysuckle aroma enveloped me. It was euphoria.
Moments later, my boyfriend (who is extremely discerning about fragrance) turned his head and from ACROSS THE ROOM exclaimed, “that smells incredible.” I looked up at his face and there were tears in his eyes. I kid you not.

 

Hindu Honeysuckle is a clear and transportive honeysuckle fragrance, conjuring memories of peaceful childhood summers in nature. It has amazing projection and longevity just like the real honeysuckle vine. This is an especially grand accomplishment considering that all-natural fragrances tend to be lacking in the sillage/life-span department.

Hindu Honeysuckle also has depth and complexity, with a prominent ambrette note from the opening, along with lighter coriander and bergamot, then vetiver to give it a green aromatic earthiness. These elements set off the features of the honeysuckle flowers even more, so that they are sparkling and full of light. Jasmine and bergamot linger in the dry down. It is extremely well blended, yet it retains great note separation.

The earthy/herbal elements also enforce that this is a unisex fragrance. It is very impressive that it is an all-natural fragrance because it is so vibrant and layered. However, by any standards (natural or synthetic, niche, indie, or whatever), it is a transcendent and awe-inspiring feat of alchemy.

I would say that Hindu Honeysuckle is worth every penny, but to me it is priceless. It seems wrong to put a figure on something of such arresting, unquantifiable aesthetic value. I personally feel that it is too beautiful to be an every day fragrance (though it’s easy to wear and definitely could be one if you chose), and instead something to wear when you want to create beautiful memories and lasting positive associations. It would be ideal for a special occasion or a sacred personal ceremony. This joyous peaceful fragrance would be a great gift to the person for whom you want to show infinite gratitude; that’s just what I think of when I smell it!

If you love honeysuckle or have never smelled it before and want to know exactly what it smells like, this is the fragrance for you. Trust me, it does NOT get better than this.

Il Profumi di Firenze Costa Mediterranea

6 Apr

Holy Neroli!!! Costa Mediterranea is one of those fragrances you can smell THROUGH the bottle, even if you haven’t spilled any of it on the outside.

You must have a strong stomach for this fragrance! It has otherworldly projection and longevity. It’s like the Pink Sugar of masculine citrus frags. It goes on, and on and on… so you better love it if you decide to wear it!

Costa Mediterranea starts off with potent, sinus-tingling bergamot, lemon, and herbal elements. They radiate in a way that is sharp, dry and not true to life. It employs high quality materials which definitely don’t scream lemon floor cleaner, but they are also entirely lacking the freshness of say, L’Occitane’s Verbena. Though aquatic notes are not listed, it has a very strong aquatic feel to it.

Costa Mediterranea reminds me of something that would fall into the “men’s sport” category of fragrances. Though I am not sure what to compare this to in that genre, I could envision its equivalent composition appearing in an offering from Tommy Hilfiger or Adidas, though this unquestionably has 10 times the potency. Spray it in only ONCE in the air and then walk through it, if you dare.

I made the mistake of wearing this in an office, and I could tell people were trying very hard not to look at me. I’ll never forget it. This would be an okay selection for clubbing (if you wanted everyone in the place to know you had arrived), but a terrible thing to smell while hungover the following morning. If you are sweating while wearing it, I think it projects something like 15 ft. I think this would also be appropriate for a cool, windy day spent mostly outdoors. Perhaps at the ocean, but not inside or in extreme heat. Costa Mediterranea is not a friend of the blazing Sun.

Once the razor sharp top notes have long dissipated, and it enters the dry down stage, I can detect faint florals (primarily rose), and the earthy vetiver finally emerges to join with the bergamot and lemon.

However, this is largely a citrus herbal fragrance. Don’t let the honeysuckle listed in the notes mislead you. This is a sporty citrus MONSTER. You’ve been warned. Okay gotta go wash it off now because it’s starting to give me indigestion…Guess I just don’t have the stomach.

Tasha Pilot-Slow

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