Perfumers: Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal
Mon Parfum Cheri, par Camille makes my fiance physically ill because he cannot stomach its dense, savory richness. This is only for serious iris lovers. I loved it. I tested the original edt iris-heavy formulation. Many have mentioned that this perfume reminds them of old fashioned glamour. I don’t get that from it at all.
This perfume is so creamy and sour/bitter at the same time it is truly unique. It also contains a large amount of deep dry earthiness, like parched black mud in powdered form combined with candle wax, and dark purple plum skins. The tang of plum balances the fatty orris and the dusty patchouli so expertly, I’m spellbound.
The acid and alkaline components do not blend here. Instead, they remain separate and juxtaposed in an equilibrium that commands respect. I can’t believe someone actually composed it! It’s an olfactory assemblage. Truly perfume as art. Waxy, bitter, powdery, and addictive.
This is not a welcoming smell. It comes off as something you know you shouldn’t be smelling for your own health/safety, but you succumb to it anyway. Like drugs or fumes or magic. Seriously engaging.
This fragrance is now available in both edt and edp formulas, with the former being more dry/iris-heavy, and the latter focusing more on fruity nuances. The edt leans more masculine, though as a true iris lover, I prefer it.
signature ascent 
I am an Annick Goutal fan in general, and I liked that deep-red bottle so much that I yearned to love this perfume… ok, I would have settled for liking it: that bottle would have looked so nice in the company of the while Un Matin D’Orage and blue Nuit Etoilée… But that plum/dry fruit note just makes my stomach churn. But I know several people who liked this perfume a lot – so you’re not alone.
With these beautiful older AG’s bottles I always wished there were a secondary market just for the bottles 🙂