Aquolina Pink Sugar (2004)

Here’s the progression of Pink Sugar on my skin:
black licorice—->pink spun sugar (ethyl maltol)—->vanilla caramel (vanillin, musk)

Pink Sugar opens with the strong sweet scent of chewy black licorice candy and little else. After about 20 minutes, the black licorice diminishes significantly and is replaced by fluffy vanilla spun sugar and a sweet lactonic note, which by a long shot- could translate to pralines, creme brulee or caramel and nougat. Take your pick.

Pink sugar is a unique gourmand because it is at once heavy and fresh. There is an aromatic aspect to it that cuts through the heavier base notes and the musk provides some lift which makes the whole composition able to achieve a desperately needed transparent quality.  Though it is still rather sharp, too sweet, and cloying especially if applied with abandon, there is a balance struck here which I think has helped this fragrance become a standout among gourmands of its era.

It’s longevity is considerable. I like it because it ends in sweet milky musk, as opposed to the dusty shapeless musk so common in contemporary gourmand scents. Absolutely worth experiencing…
for the experience.

Update:
This lasts close to forever on skin. It’s like an olfactory temporary tattoo. Be ready for the commitment.

Aquolina Gold Sugar (2013)

Jelly Belly jelly bean candies feature “recipe ideas” on the backs of their bags, which are very similar to the fragrance layering concept.

The idea goes something like this:
Hot Cinnamon Jelly Belly + Green Apple Jelly Belly=
Apple Pie!

Lemon Jelly Belly + Cream Soda Jelly Belly=
Lemon Meringue Pie!

I think the notes in Gold Sugar by Aquolina have a similar quality, and the outcome is a complete recipe for a tropical vanilla milkshake (albeit a very artificial one!). Gold Sugar is a great example of the Japanese concept of Kawaii, meaning “adorable in a cool way.”

Gold Sugar starts off with diet lemon-lime soda in the opening, and a generic coconut-flavored candy note… not exceptionally creamy yet, but extremely sweet.

Once it opens on my skin, faint and pretty abstract florals appear, as well as a creaminess which is half-way between a bubble bath, and a vanilla ice cream or cream soda-scented body lotion.

Once the diet lime soda fades, the heart reveals a warm almost spicy sweetness on top of the milkiness which really does smell like a loose interpretation of vanilla custard with caramelized sugar on top. Maybe it’s vanilla custard realized as a scented lotion or a candle… or, a fragrance.. Miles from the real thing, but pleasant nonetheless.

Gold Sugar projects well and the warm sugary milk scent goes on and on. The diet lime soda in the opening had me suspicious, but once it calms down, it’s a creamy vanilla (jelly)bean…

If this really was a jelly bean, I would save it for last along with my other favorite flavors. I bet it would combine really well with the peach…